Claire's Puglia Masseria Blog
This week, I've been busy getting together information about our masseria for our website which we hope to launch this autumn.
We know we have a stylish farmhouse in a wonderful setting, a great pool, lovely beautifully-designed accommodation, all of which makes for wonderfully alluring photographs. But we cannot rely on photographs alone to lure in the punters, not if we want great reviews, repeat business and high ratings
Come on, we've all done it, you know, fallen for that gorgeous pool shot with the tumbling bougainvillea set against an azure blue sky and the terrace to take drinks - it all looks perfect. You arrive and the pool looks more like a pond with 1970s sagging sun-loungers (cleverly omitted from the pool shot), the bougainvillea is in fact in the neighbours garden and the bedroom linen is circa 1950. But in my experience you usually get over it. After all, youre not at work, the sun is out and it's a chance to BBQ, have a cocktail or two and enjoy your family and friends.
BUT, it's the little things that will tip you over the edge, the tiny but essential practical things that press your buttons just one time too many, causing you to grit your teeth and vow never to return again.The lack of a bottle opener, the collapsible shower curtain, the dodgy lock, the ill placed step you trip on every time....
Puglia has an ever-expanding variety of villas to rent, we have never had it so good. But what comes with a growing rental market is a bunch of eager website operators that are keen to guide the discerning traveller to find and book a place that best suits them. Most just give overviews, but I like the ones that are highly selective, detailed and opinionated, with honest reporting and value for money. I have very high expectations these days and therefore I am aware that we have a tall order to meet. I'm sure we won't tick every single box but we are going to try our damnedest to get it right. Over the years we have been lucky to experience some great places, many that have wowed and excited us, many that have relaxed and rejuvenated us and many that have made us not want to leave. To get that formula right, I've come to realise that not only do we have to get the detail right but we have to create the experience, the lifestyle Theres so much to do and we don't even have a name for the masseria yet!
Ciao Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
We know we have a stylish farmhouse in a wonderful setting, a great pool, lovely beautifully-designed accommodation, all of which makes for wonderfully alluring photographs. But we cannot rely on photographs alone to lure in the punters, not if we want great reviews, repeat business and high ratings
Come on, we've all done it, you know, fallen for that gorgeous pool shot with the tumbling bougainvillea set against an azure blue sky and the terrace to take drinks - it all looks perfect. You arrive and the pool looks more like a pond with 1970s sagging sun-loungers (cleverly omitted from the pool shot), the bougainvillea is in fact in the neighbours garden and the bedroom linen is circa 1950. But in my experience you usually get over it. After all, youre not at work, the sun is out and it's a chance to BBQ, have a cocktail or two and enjoy your family and friends.
BUT, it's the little things that will tip you over the edge, the tiny but essential practical things that press your buttons just one time too many, causing you to grit your teeth and vow never to return again.The lack of a bottle opener, the collapsible shower curtain, the dodgy lock, the ill placed step you trip on every time....
Puglia has an ever-expanding variety of villas to rent, we have never had it so good. But what comes with a growing rental market is a bunch of eager website operators that are keen to guide the discerning traveller to find and book a place that best suits them. Most just give overviews, but I like the ones that are highly selective, detailed and opinionated, with honest reporting and value for money. I have very high expectations these days and therefore I am aware that we have a tall order to meet. I'm sure we won't tick every single box but we are going to try our damnedest to get it right. Over the years we have been lucky to experience some great places, many that have wowed and excited us, many that have relaxed and rejuvenated us and many that have made us not want to leave. To get that formula right, I've come to realise that not only do we have to get the detail right but we have to create the experience, the lifestyle Theres so much to do and we don't even have a name for the masseria yet!
Ciao Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
My mind this week has been occupied with obtaining the most mundane but absolutely essential information to make living in Puglia practical. A series of "How Do I's" swamped me, resulting in an anxiety attack at about 2am in the morning. I haven't given a thought to such matters as obtaining a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) or Italian Internet Banking or "Emergency Numbers. How do I get online without having a land line? How do I renew a British passport? How do I pay car, rubbish, community tax, electric and gas bills?
A false sense of security gripped me as I thought - got the masseria, got the Gucci glasses, got a basic understanding of the local lingo, not bad on a Vespa but I haven't the foggiest idea about how the Italians live day to day!
Then I found "Puglia Uncovered", the answer to my prayers. Its a fantastic website that deals with all the above and more. Theres a great forum incorporating those that have done it and those that aspire to do it. Its a really great resource that, thankfully, has restored my sleeping pattern!
Take a look http://www.pugliauncovered.com/
I hope to focus on this area in the next few weeks. Reading the many forums it all seems relatively straightforward (hang on, what about all that red tape the Italians are famous for...). If anyone has an experience, good or bad, or top tips to share, I would love to hear from you. Email me at claire@jamesmasoninteriors.co.uk
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
A false sense of security gripped me as I thought - got the masseria, got the Gucci glasses, got a basic understanding of the local lingo, not bad on a Vespa but I haven't the foggiest idea about how the Italians live day to day!
Then I found "Puglia Uncovered", the answer to my prayers. Its a fantastic website that deals with all the above and more. Theres a great forum incorporating those that have done it and those that aspire to do it. Its a really great resource that, thankfully, has restored my sleeping pattern!
Take a look http://www.pugliauncovered.com/
I hope to focus on this area in the next few weeks. Reading the many forums it all seems relatively straightforward (hang on, what about all that red tape the Italians are famous for...). If anyone has an experience, good or bad, or top tips to share, I would love to hear from you. Email me at claire@jamesmasoninteriors.co.uk
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Hoorraahh! Masseria Montelauro, a hotel offering 27 rooms, 2km from Otranto, has opened its doors, marking the beginning of the summer season. We stayed there last year and returned just a few days ago as we finalised decisions on our masseria build. This visit happens to be our last before we move over in May. Masseria Montelauro is perfect if you want something simple and friendly. There are dogs galore as the owner takes in the odd stray and they are all adorable. The interior is very calming (think crisp whites and sky blues) and it is lovely and quiet with a lovely pool (great in the warmer months for a much needed dip after a day on site). The blazing fire at the entrance was a warm welcome from the cold, given the temperature in Puglia was much colder than on record this time last year. The farmers are very happy at least, given the rainfall. See, it's not just good old England that has miserable weather (much to Fraser's disgust).
Masseria Montelauro http://www.masseriamontelauro.it/en/default.asp is also known as the Apulian Farmhouse, so named by HUSH Italy, a company representing a small handpicked selection of charming hotels and guest houses in the area. You might find it useful http://www.hush-italy.com/
We had a really funny and embarrassing moment with the receptionist. Whilst trying to reserve a hotel room for a couple of nights in anticipation of our arrival in Puglia in May (just until our lorry turns up), the receptionist and I got our wires very crossed. In Italian, I asked "Do you allow dogs to stay overnight with their owners in the hotel rooms?" The receptionists answered " No problem, we can talk to the restaurant who will put it in the fridge for the night". Trust me, this conversation went round and round in circles until I fathomed out that the word for dog is "cane" but I had pronounced the "r" therefore it sounded like "carne" which means meat do I need to explain anything more! Very exciting day today. When we sold our house, we sold everything in it!
Very lucky as it means we had an opportunity to start again. Given the austerity of the masseria's architecture, what worked in our Victorian home definitely wouldn't have a place in our masseria. As Im an interior designer I've called upon all my contacts and suppliers, which has made the process of acquiring a five bedroom homes worth of furniture a very enjoyable process. It all appeared in our driveway today. So many boxes, I cannot wait to unpack and make home again. I've hunted down some great pieces, just this morning, at some godforsaken hour at Kempton Antiques Fair, I managed to land myself a bread paddle (about 120 years old) from Normandy. It' about 8ft long and made of solid wood, just gorgeous and a perfect decorative addition to our enormous wood oven. Counting down the days
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Masseria Montelauro http://www.masseriamontelauro.it/en/default.asp is also known as the Apulian Farmhouse, so named by HUSH Italy, a company representing a small handpicked selection of charming hotels and guest houses in the area. You might find it useful http://www.hush-italy.com/
We had a really funny and embarrassing moment with the receptionist. Whilst trying to reserve a hotel room for a couple of nights in anticipation of our arrival in Puglia in May (just until our lorry turns up), the receptionist and I got our wires very crossed. In Italian, I asked "Do you allow dogs to stay overnight with their owners in the hotel rooms?" The receptionists answered " No problem, we can talk to the restaurant who will put it in the fridge for the night". Trust me, this conversation went round and round in circles until I fathomed out that the word for dog is "cane" but I had pronounced the "r" therefore it sounded like "carne" which means meat do I need to explain anything more! Very exciting day today. When we sold our house, we sold everything in it!
Very lucky as it means we had an opportunity to start again. Given the austerity of the masseria's architecture, what worked in our Victorian home definitely wouldn't have a place in our masseria. As Im an interior designer I've called upon all my contacts and suppliers, which has made the process of acquiring a five bedroom homes worth of furniture a very enjoyable process. It all appeared in our driveway today. So many boxes, I cannot wait to unpack and make home again. I've hunted down some great pieces, just this morning, at some godforsaken hour at Kempton Antiques Fair, I managed to land myself a bread paddle (about 120 years old) from Normandy. It' about 8ft long and made of solid wood, just gorgeous and a perfect decorative addition to our enormous wood oven. Counting down the days
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
I have been busy chatting to many of you who have contacted me recently about the issue of earning a living. "What will you do once you are there?" is a common question and is something that many people who decide to pack up and give it a go abroad often overlook. You only have to watch the many programmes on TV and the classic scenario where a couple arrive in a foreign country with totally unrealistic time-scales for the launch of their B&B venture with 2p in the bank to pull it off to know what I mean. (For all of you out there that did manage to pull it off in similar circumstances, well done you, I just clearly haven't got your tenacity or nerves of steel.)
I have to admit that Fraser and I too have been ignorant to some extent in thinking that the rent from the masseria will provide us with a good yearly income to get us by. Its only after many months of planning our finances, adjusting and adding to our expenses and fine tuning the hidden costs that we realise there is not a lot to play with.
Our model has always been to buy a second property and to rent out our masseria. I have to say though, with the current Euro/Sterling exchange rate and property price increases in the last year alone, we are having to work very hard to find something in Puglia to fit our budget. Getting work down there is going to be very difficult. I am hoping to pick up some interior design work but expect it to be very few and far between. Fraser will privately manage our rental business. We have two other small properties (in Morocco) that we currently manage so that will occupy some of the time. Our aim is to make enough money through renting out the masseria to keep us afloat. It is not going to be easy and after earning London salaries between us, we will obviously have to make adjustments and sacrifice the luxuries. For us, deciding to make this move is not about maintaining the lifestyle we once had. Once you realise that your designer handbag fetish is a thing of the past and you can't have what you want, its amazing how creative and entrepreneurial you can become. I am fascinated at what people turn their hand to and their willingness to try something new. Whereas before I might have objected to an idea, I find now I'll consider anything and that's called getting in touch with your creative side. Who knows what is going to happen. We can't retire, don't want to retire and am looking forward to the journey ahead.
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Landscape Properties stand, our developers presented to us twelve bottles of olive oil harvested from our own olive grove complete with a personal label with our names on it. Forgive me if I sound smug, but how amazing is that! Couldn't believe it and what a lovely surprise, we were so grateful. Fraser, who never misses a trick, asked what happened to the rest of the harvest to be told it is being stored in our masseria awaiting our arrival. Our parents have had a bottle and so have our sisters and brothers, in fact all our friends are going to receive a bottle because it's good stuff, it tastes great. Fraser and I did a little test and compared it to a few superior oils and it was up there with the best of them.
For those of you who visited the Dolce Vita show, did anyone notice just how much Puglia featured on the agenda? Not only from a property perspective but an entire stand dedicated to golf and spas, not to mention a new horse riding school. Language courses abound too. Puglia was definitely the flavour of the moment. The rental market is booming it seems, with elite rental villa companies competing for business with a promise of record weekly rental rates not dissimilar to our northern Italian neighbours.
Then there's the food. You cannot escape Puglia's offerings fantastic! We know, of course, that Puglia supplies most of Europe's pasta and olive oil, and we also know that some of the best chefs in town love the area. River Cafe's Rose Grey was seduced by Puglia's olive oil, Antonio Carlucci summers here and it's Jamie Oliver's chosen location to train his chefs. But, of course, it was Rick Steins recent programme and his exploration of the area that created the "food heaven" frenzy. I should also mention Kevin McCloud's Grand Designs Revisited and More4's Trade Secrets - the talk of the town thanks to Prime Time Saturday night viewing. It's not ..."Did you see it? but Who didn't see it?" Just in case...
http://www.channel4.com/4homes/ontv/grand-designs/houses/P/puglia-revisit.html
We were delighted to meet a couple of our neighbours at the Dolce Vita show who have also invested in Landscapes masserie. An absolute pleasure to meet like-minded people who are as passionate about the area as we are. We look forward to meeting them all again this summer!.
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
We have received some good news this week, Winter and Christmas (our West Highland Terriers) have been declared fit for travel. They have microchips fitted, they have been vaccinated against rabies and we have just received their blood tests back to say they have the required antibodies to protect them and we now have their passports. It's incredibly official and quite expensive. The whole process including the passports came in around 300! They are worth it. We found the Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs an invaluable resource. If relevant to you go to: www.defra.gov.uk
The masseria is looking gorgeous. We are at a lovely stage in the design process where we decide on the decorative materials such as flooring, light fittings and joinery. I love the whole process but there is something so thrilling when you decide on a look and feel. It requires a lot of thought and visualization and when you finally get there, it's incredibly exciting. In my opinion, masserie need a sympathetic approach to enhance the natural beauty of the architecture and materials. The stone is there to be seen, to be appreciated and therefore should be complemented with anything you put along side it.
Most things we have selected are indigenous to the area and we have specifically kept to a minimal palette of muted colours that have an earthy quality. To ensure warmth and texture we have chosen bronze, zinc and copper for the fittings and soft linens throughout for soft furnishings. The flooring is Salento marble treated with acid to "age" it and cut to our specification. The huge slabs have a lovely chalky and almost dusty appearance with muted grey, taupe and white pigments. The flooring will run thoughout all the rooms to give a seamless effect. Local wood left untreated will be used for our custom made basin units and local hammered granite for the kitchen worktops. Altogether, we hope to create a harmonious space that links the inside with outside and somewhere well enjoy living - a practical and friendly home with a touch of luxuryhomes are about expression not impression.
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
A trusted friend this week observed that by investing in the masseria, Fraser and I are doing wonders in reducing our carbon footprint! In my ignorance I hadn't given it much thought until now. I was intrigued to find out how carbon savvy the masseria is and started doing a little research.
Firstly, the entire fabric of the building and courtyard is natural stone, bought and quarried locally therefore economical and naturally a good insulator. It goes without saying that our decision to install solar paneling, and underfloor heating, knocks off a few tones and fitting energy-saving bulbs throughout lowers energy consumption by 50-75%. All good so far...
Our new electrical appliances will have improved energy ratings and, thanks to the gorgeous climate, clothes will dry in the fresh air. Got a feeling we won't be in need of any long haul flights for a while and my intended method of travel, a Vespa and bicycle, is a vast improvement on our present vehicle
A Range Rover! (I know, I can hear the tut-tutting). Well, at least our move to Italy has heightened my environmental awareness. That is, of course, until I visit Sainsbury's this afternoon and imagine Gordon Brown's face as I load my trolley with orange bags. Guilty as charged!
Exciting week next week. Theres Londons Dolce Vita Show - a must to indulge your passion for anything Italian. Its a great show and a brilliant inspiration. We shook hands on the masseria deal during last years show so watch out, you could bag yourself a some porcini mushrooms, a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar, oh - and some bricks and mortar. Be sure to pop in and see the Landscape Properties stand, its one of the best there http://www.ladolcevitaevent.co.uk
If you have any questions about Puglia or the masseria or you want to find out more about our experience so far, I would be delighted to hear from you.
Email me at claire@jamesmasoninteriors.co.uk
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
It amazes us every time we visit Puglia how much more we discover. This latest trip was no exception.
The Fabby Butchers
We decided to try out the brand spanking new Risorgimento Resort, a very stylish five-star hotel in Lecce that has been open now for four months. Very modern, very comfortable and very, very luxurious! Great bathrooms, fabulous products, sumptuous bedding, gorgeous roof terrace, very nice indeed.
As Fraser and I weaved our way through the many winding streets and blind alleyways of Lecce, we came across a little hidden gem, a butchers tucked away down a nondescript lane, we would almost have walked by had it not been for a little curiosity. Il Simposio is a norcineria (a butchers specialising in the art of preparing and preserving meat). The norcino (butcher or artisan) will helpfully guide you through the various meat cuts and make very useful suggestions how the meats are best served. In our case, the staff suggested we sample their fare in the attached restaurant, a very simple interior under a vaulted ceiling lit by candles. We were charmed and blown away at the combinations of ingredients being presented to us. The wild boar and black truffle cheese bruschetta was amazing and the raw ham carpaccio an absolute classic. The house vino helped to wash it down very nicely. When we move to Puglia in May, this will be one of our first stops to fill the fridge without a doubt!
Il Simposio can be found on Via Dei Veradi, 7 73100 Lecce Tel: +39 0832 277 819.
To find out more about this highly regarded art and to learn more about various cuts of meat typically found in a norcineria, go to:
http://int.primopiatto.barilla.com/ilmondodellapasta/isaporiregionali/speciali/pdf/49781_awContent.pdf,
For more info on the hotel we stayed at:
http://www.vestashotels.it/hotel_lecce.htm
The Lovely Coastal Drive
One year ago, our Landscape Properties contact took us for a drive along the Salento coastal road that we shall never forget. Stunning and very reminiscent of the Amalfi and the Italian Riviera, you cant help being seduced by the breathtaking views of the cliff edge dotted with luxury villas perched right on the water and little whitewashed towns spread over hillsides. You can see the tip of the heel denoting the end of Italy where the two seas merge together. It is truly lovely. We decided, as it was one year ago, we would make time to experience it all over again. Awesome. After a stop in Castro for an excellent lunch of seafood antipasti, lobster spaghetti and a bottle of chilled local wine, we felt fantastically refreshed especially after we saw the bill, a third of what we pay in London.
The Flight Home
After a rewarding two-day trip visiting our masseria and the olive grove, we left for England very satisfied with all the new developments. Fraser and I had heard that we have a famous neighbour and to our surprise, we found ourselves standing next to him while waiting to board our Ryanair plane. There he was, taller than I had expected and very charismatic, good old Sugs from Madness! Next time Ill keep my eyes peeled for our other famous British neighbours, Lord McAlpine and his wife and the brilliant Helen Mirren, that is of course if they ditch the private jet first!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
A whirlwind week of travelling and working, my feet havent touched the ground. Fraser and I decided on a last minute trip to discover another region of Italy, Basilicata. It was a treat for Valentines Day and what an incredible place to rediscover one another. There lie within the ancient town of Matera and the intriguing Sassi, 3000 dwellings carved from rock. I havent experienced anything like it before. Church facades blend into the jagged peaks topped with tufts of the hardiest shrub and only identifiable by a humble door opening and minimal cross. Homes compete for space and tumble down the mountain side, tiny pathways and narrow lanes form a complex maze, small openings lead your eye to the unknown. None of it looks real until you are reminded of the harsh reality of the place. Theres not a single sound, other than the echoes of a cow bell in the distance. I see the cow, all alone, tracing the paths of those that used to live in nothing but the caves which are still there to be discovered today. Beautiful Sassi, eerie Sassi - Im sold.
Stay at SantAngelo Hotel . Nice touch, complimentary coffee, wine, juice the minute you arrive and youre also served with fresh olive and tomato bread and sweet pastries. Delicious. The staff are so lovely and helpful. Its only two hours away from the Landscape masserie plots and 50 minutes from Bari Airport. Go and see, Im sure you will not be disappointed.
From the peaks of Sassi to the peaks of the Derbyshire Dales. Shamefully, its my first visit to this wonderful part of the world and I was awestruck. The landscape spreads out before you and takes your breath away. Truly lovely. Thanks to my sister Melanie, I feel totally rejuvenated after an eight mile walk, a stay in a delightful stone cottage and lots of tea and cake. Im ready for this weeks forthcoming trip to our masseria to check on progress. If the pictures that Landscape sent to us this week are anything to go by, I think we are in for some pleasant surprises. The courtyard wall is completed and the under-floor heating is laid. Its all very exciting.
I remember, this time last year when we first stepped on to our virgin land, the first buds of wild flowers were in bloom in the olive grove and the sun was pleasantly warm our faces. I look forward to shedding my winter coat this time, even if its only for a short while!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Why are you moving? is a question that has come up a lot this week.
A number of reasons really Frasers passionate answer would be that hes bored. Bored of parking tickets, crap weather, miserable faces on the Tube, big bills, lack of parking, expensive taxis, Big Brother cameras, pollution trust me, the list is much longer but Ill spare you.
On a more constructive note, we both agree that the move is inspired by an accumulation of factors leading to inevitable change. There is change that you prepare for - new job, new house, interest rate hike that sort of thing - then theres change that smacks you right between the eyes, change you couldnt possibly prepare for - loss of loved ones, divorce, redundancy, health issues. Theres been too much change lately. Its unsettling. It makes you think!
Unlike many of our friends, we dont yet have children of our own. Many friends are expecting their second or third child, which brings the issue of space and schools into the equation. As a result, many are priced out and are leaving London in search of the country pad, the 4 x 4, the private school and a chocolate brown Labrador. A natural progression I guess. It made us realise that our friends priorities are so different from our own. Having no dependants means that we can be a bit selfish and take time out. For us, those sorts of decisions are a good five years away so there is definitely a feeling that if we dont do it now, we never will.
The chance to learn a language is appealing. I hate the fact that I cant speak another language. I studied French at school for years and although I can order a beer and a hotel room with a bath (!) I do look longingly at those people who can reel off whole paragraphs fluently. I realise that the only way to learn the Italian language properly is to submerse ourselves in a community of non-English-speaking Italians and there are lots of them in Puglia! For now Rosetta Stone will have to do. A mug of tea, two digestives and bags of enthusiasm is helping us get there
The lifestyle is very tempting - fantastic food, a better diet. Fraser is a real foodie and a great cook The thought of an outdoor kitchen is his idea of heaven. My idea of heaven is a potager garden. We have huge aspirations for a kitchen garden and Im told by the locals that the earth is so fertile you can grow anything. All I can say is that Ill give it a go but Im hoping my neighbouring farmer will accept my homemade lemonade and banana loaf in exchange for some handy tips. Can you believe it, but I have allotment envy. I dribble at the site of chicory and rucola and have my nose in my Jamie at Home and Sara Ravens Garden Cookbook many a night. Who'd have thought.
I think our time in London is coming to a natural end. We have met so many great people, both professionally and socially. We all say that London has changed but actually, the fact is, its us. Weve changed. Weve gone and grown up!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Indeed, our fabulous house in London has gone. Now we reside in a tiny little rented flat in Richmond, West London and count down the days to the morning we pack the car with our belongings and wave goodbye to the lorry weve hired to transport our possessions.
Fraser, who has a head for figures, is demonstrating great aptitude for all the nerdy stuff like the route we will take to get to a place we will one day call home. He is currently mulling over a list which includes First Aid kit amongst the many tasks he is responsible for. The checklist just keeps on growing: taxman meeting, residency, passports for the dogs, change of address list, Inland Revenue all daunting but doable.
In the meantime I am planning, in intricate detail, the interiors of our home following our last trip a couple of weeks back. A very challenging space, cavernous in the vertical sense, with the eye drawn upwards to the most spectacular ceilings. Oh..the ceilings, they are special. Its our fourth trip since the beginning of the build some seven months ago. We find ourselves standing in the shell of our home - in what will be our open plan kitchen/dining/living room - awe struck by the way the light filters through the extra window I asked for. Great shards of amber light hit the exact spot where my prized table will sit. I look left through my window where the kitchen sink will live and I see a 600-year-old gnarled olive tree, more like a creature from a book you read when you were a kid, the one that comes alive at night and says boo! What a view, nothing but olive trees and a sprinkling of wild flowers. OK, dreamy moment over, back to the plumbing. Our project manager is a genius. He gets me, which is great as I am very particular (nice with it I might add), and go to great pains to achieve the detail. Its all in the detail, a mantra they must be sick of hearing.
Our project manager has such a gentle way about him. He is quiet yet has finesse. I like the way he gestures the arch of the cloister with his hands. He undertook the laborious task of marking out the pool position and then redid it after I changed my mind without complaint, just so that we got it right. I drool over his incredible and spontaneous drawings to interpret my ideas, and better still how he takes his chalk and brings to life the idea of my pizza oven on the wall to the exact design and scale I had envisaged. He gets me. Hurrah! I ask Fraser if he is happy with the ideas we have discussed. He looks at me dreamily, excitedly, relieved that he can finally take time out from a 12-year stretch in the City. Hes clearly done his time.
Much to do this week, time to crack on. Ill be working on the hard landscaping of the inner courtyard. Some 32m x 28m to be precise. Compared to our postage-sized urban gardens of old, I can finally indulge my passion for a scented Mediterranean garden. Jasmines will tumble over pergolas, lavenders will hum with bees, bay, thyme and rosemary will compete for space, figs and lemons and will abound. Well, one can dream.
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Its an interesting one isnt it? Bond broker and interior designer with their two West Highland terriers live in an enviable house in an enviable address in London. Life is good, comfortable some would say perfect. One day broker and designer decide to sell up lock, stock and barrel and start life over in a small rural village in a place called Puglia, Southern Italy. Do I hear echoes of Heard it all before.? If you are intrigued, however, you may want to read on
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Meet me, Claire, 34, my husband Fraser 41 and our doted-on pooches Winter and Christmas (adopted names from their previous gay owner and renamed Winnie and Chrissie for social acceptance, Im sure you understand).
On announcing to all and sundry our big plan to sell our Victorian home on a typical London street in exchange for a masseria in an olive grove, we have received mixed reactions. Some think we are mad, you can tell by the furrowing frown on their foreheads and a look of bewilderment in their eyes. Some turn starry-eyed and physically release the tension, shoulders lowering a foot south as they transport themselves to a place a long way away. And then there are those that love you and loathe you because youve beaten them to it or found the answer they are looking for. Its been a rollercoaster of emotional highs and lows from ecstatic excitement to stomach-churning doubt I can assure you.
Why Puglia I hear you ask? Just go and visit. I guarantee you will take something home with you that will make you warm and fuzzy when you recall your experience. Tuscany it is not. Get ready to be surprised. Puglia is natural and wild, authentic in the true sense, rustic and traditional, friendly and safe. It is totally enchanting if these are qualities you are searching for in a place.
From the gastronomic delights to the beautiful stone that makes up some of Italys most important architecture, the cherished fortified masserie and acres of breathtaking coastline (the sea is to die for), the mysterious and sculptural olive groves, the diverse cultural history many are as captivated as we are.
I have been invited to write about our experience prior to and during the big move to our new Landscape masseria and then about our new life in Puglia. What a pleasure it will be. Ill invite you into our beautiful home, a masterpiece of stone masonry at its finest and share with you stunning scenery from our many planned jaunts around the area. Ill bare my soul and face the shame of the inevitable cultural dilemmas, social etiquette disasters, embarrassing mispronunciations Ill record the highs and lows of this much-awaited journey.
Real people, real experiences.
Thanks for reading..
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
I have to admit that Fraser and I too have been ignorant to some extent in thinking that the rent from the masseria will provide us with a good yearly income to get us by. Its only after many months of planning our finances, adjusting and adding to our expenses and fine tuning the hidden costs that we realise there is not a lot to play with.
Our model has always been to buy a second property and to rent out our masseria. I have to say though, with the current Euro/Sterling exchange rate and property price increases in the last year alone, we are having to work very hard to find something in Puglia to fit our budget. Getting work down there is going to be very difficult. I am hoping to pick up some interior design work but expect it to be very few and far between. Fraser will privately manage our rental business. We have two other small properties (in Morocco) that we currently manage so that will occupy some of the time. Our aim is to make enough money through renting out the masseria to keep us afloat. It is not going to be easy and after earning London salaries between us, we will obviously have to make adjustments and sacrifice the luxuries. For us, deciding to make this move is not about maintaining the lifestyle we once had. Once you realise that your designer handbag fetish is a thing of the past and you can't have what you want, its amazing how creative and entrepreneurial you can become. I am fascinated at what people turn their hand to and their willingness to try something new. Whereas before I might have objected to an idea, I find now I'll consider anything and that's called getting in touch with your creative side. Who knows what is going to happen. We can't retire, don't want to retire and am looking forward to the journey ahead.
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Landscape Properties stand, our developers presented to us twelve bottles of olive oil harvested from our own olive grove complete with a personal label with our names on it. Forgive me if I sound smug, but how amazing is that! Couldn't believe it and what a lovely surprise, we were so grateful. Fraser, who never misses a trick, asked what happened to the rest of the harvest to be told it is being stored in our masseria awaiting our arrival. Our parents have had a bottle and so have our sisters and brothers, in fact all our friends are going to receive a bottle because it's good stuff, it tastes great. Fraser and I did a little test and compared it to a few superior oils and it was up there with the best of them.
For those of you who visited the Dolce Vita show, did anyone notice just how much Puglia featured on the agenda? Not only from a property perspective but an entire stand dedicated to golf and spas, not to mention a new horse riding school. Language courses abound too. Puglia was definitely the flavour of the moment. The rental market is booming it seems, with elite rental villa companies competing for business with a promise of record weekly rental rates not dissimilar to our northern Italian neighbours.
Then there's the food. You cannot escape Puglia's offerings fantastic! We know, of course, that Puglia supplies most of Europe's pasta and olive oil, and we also know that some of the best chefs in town love the area. River Cafe's Rose Grey was seduced by Puglia's olive oil, Antonio Carlucci summers here and it's Jamie Oliver's chosen location to train his chefs. But, of course, it was Rick Steins recent programme and his exploration of the area that created the "food heaven" frenzy. I should also mention Kevin McCloud's Grand Designs Revisited and More4's Trade Secrets - the talk of the town thanks to Prime Time Saturday night viewing. It's not ..."Did you see it? but Who didn't see it?" Just in case...
http://www.channel4.com/4homes/ontv/grand-designs/houses/P/puglia-revisit.html
We were delighted to meet a couple of our neighbours at the Dolce Vita show who have also invested in Landscapes masserie. An absolute pleasure to meet like-minded people who are as passionate about the area as we are. We look forward to meeting them all again this summer!.
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
We have received some good news this week, Winter and Christmas (our West Highland Terriers) have been declared fit for travel. They have microchips fitted, they have been vaccinated against rabies and we have just received their blood tests back to say they have the required antibodies to protect them and we now have their passports. It's incredibly official and quite expensive. The whole process including the passports came in around 300! They are worth it. We found the Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs an invaluable resource. If relevant to you go to: www.defra.gov.uk
The masseria is looking gorgeous. We are at a lovely stage in the design process where we decide on the decorative materials such as flooring, light fittings and joinery. I love the whole process but there is something so thrilling when you decide on a look and feel. It requires a lot of thought and visualization and when you finally get there, it's incredibly exciting. In my opinion, masserie need a sympathetic approach to enhance the natural beauty of the architecture and materials. The stone is there to be seen, to be appreciated and therefore should be complemented with anything you put along side it.
Most things we have selected are indigenous to the area and we have specifically kept to a minimal palette of muted colours that have an earthy quality. To ensure warmth and texture we have chosen bronze, zinc and copper for the fittings and soft linens throughout for soft furnishings. The flooring is Salento marble treated with acid to "age" it and cut to our specification. The huge slabs have a lovely chalky and almost dusty appearance with muted grey, taupe and white pigments. The flooring will run thoughout all the rooms to give a seamless effect. Local wood left untreated will be used for our custom made basin units and local hammered granite for the kitchen worktops. Altogether, we hope to create a harmonious space that links the inside with outside and somewhere well enjoy living - a practical and friendly home with a touch of luxuryhomes are about expression not impression.
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
A trusted friend this week observed that by investing in the masseria, Fraser and I are doing wonders in reducing our carbon footprint! In my ignorance I hadn't given it much thought until now. I was intrigued to find out how carbon savvy the masseria is and started doing a little research.
Firstly, the entire fabric of the building and courtyard is natural stone, bought and quarried locally therefore economical and naturally a good insulator. It goes without saying that our decision to install solar paneling, and underfloor heating, knocks off a few tones and fitting energy-saving bulbs throughout lowers energy consumption by 50-75%. All good so far...
Our new electrical appliances will have improved energy ratings and, thanks to the gorgeous climate, clothes will dry in the fresh air. Got a feeling we won't be in need of any long haul flights for a while and my intended method of travel, a Vespa and bicycle, is a vast improvement on our present vehicle
A Range Rover! (I know, I can hear the tut-tutting). Well, at least our move to Italy has heightened my environmental awareness. That is, of course, until I visit Sainsbury's this afternoon and imagine Gordon Brown's face as I load my trolley with orange bags. Guilty as charged!
Exciting week next week. Theres Londons Dolce Vita Show - a must to indulge your passion for anything Italian. Its a great show and a brilliant inspiration. We shook hands on the masseria deal during last years show so watch out, you could bag yourself a some porcini mushrooms, a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar, oh - and some bricks and mortar. Be sure to pop in and see the Landscape Properties stand, its one of the best there http://www.ladolcevitaevent.co.uk
If you have any questions about Puglia or the masseria or you want to find out more about our experience so far, I would be delighted to hear from you.
Email me at claire@jamesmasoninteriors.co.uk
Ciao!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
It amazes us every time we visit Puglia how much more we discover. This latest trip was no exception.
The Fabby Butchers
We decided to try out the brand spanking new Risorgimento Resort, a very stylish five-star hotel in Lecce that has been open now for four months. Very modern, very comfortable and very, very luxurious! Great bathrooms, fabulous products, sumptuous bedding, gorgeous roof terrace, very nice indeed.
As Fraser and I weaved our way through the many winding streets and blind alleyways of Lecce, we came across a little hidden gem, a butchers tucked away down a nondescript lane, we would almost have walked by had it not been for a little curiosity. Il Simposio is a norcineria (a butchers specialising in the art of preparing and preserving meat). The norcino (butcher or artisan) will helpfully guide you through the various meat cuts and make very useful suggestions how the meats are best served. In our case, the staff suggested we sample their fare in the attached restaurant, a very simple interior under a vaulted ceiling lit by candles. We were charmed and blown away at the combinations of ingredients being presented to us. The wild boar and black truffle cheese bruschetta was amazing and the raw ham carpaccio an absolute classic. The house vino helped to wash it down very nicely. When we move to Puglia in May, this will be one of our first stops to fill the fridge without a doubt!
Il Simposio can be found on Via Dei Veradi, 7 73100 Lecce Tel: +39 0832 277 819.
To find out more about this highly regarded art and to learn more about various cuts of meat typically found in a norcineria, go to:
http://int.primopiatto.barilla.com/ilmondodellapasta/isaporiregionali/speciali/pdf/49781_awContent.pdf,
For more info on the hotel we stayed at:
http://www.vestashotels.it/hotel_lecce.htm
The Lovely Coastal Drive
One year ago, our Landscape Properties contact took us for a drive along the Salento coastal road that we shall never forget. Stunning and very reminiscent of the Amalfi and the Italian Riviera, you cant help being seduced by the breathtaking views of the cliff edge dotted with luxury villas perched right on the water and little whitewashed towns spread over hillsides. You can see the tip of the heel denoting the end of Italy where the two seas merge together. It is truly lovely. We decided, as it was one year ago, we would make time to experience it all over again. Awesome. After a stop in Castro for an excellent lunch of seafood antipasti, lobster spaghetti and a bottle of chilled local wine, we felt fantastically refreshed especially after we saw the bill, a third of what we pay in London.
The Flight Home
After a rewarding two-day trip visiting our masseria and the olive grove, we left for England very satisfied with all the new developments. Fraser and I had heard that we have a famous neighbour and to our surprise, we found ourselves standing next to him while waiting to board our Ryanair plane. There he was, taller than I had expected and very charismatic, good old Sugs from Madness! Next time Ill keep my eyes peeled for our other famous British neighbours, Lord McAlpine and his wife and the brilliant Helen Mirren, that is of course if they ditch the private jet first!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
A whirlwind week of travelling and working, my feet havent touched the ground. Fraser and I decided on a last minute trip to discover another region of Italy, Basilicata. It was a treat for Valentines Day and what an incredible place to rediscover one another. There lie within the ancient town of Matera and the intriguing Sassi, 3000 dwellings carved from rock. I havent experienced anything like it before. Church facades blend into the jagged peaks topped with tufts of the hardiest shrub and only identifiable by a humble door opening and minimal cross. Homes compete for space and tumble down the mountain side, tiny pathways and narrow lanes form a complex maze, small openings lead your eye to the unknown. None of it looks real until you are reminded of the harsh reality of the place. Theres not a single sound, other than the echoes of a cow bell in the distance. I see the cow, all alone, tracing the paths of those that used to live in nothing but the caves which are still there to be discovered today. Beautiful Sassi, eerie Sassi - Im sold.
Stay at SantAngelo Hotel . Nice touch, complimentary coffee, wine, juice the minute you arrive and youre also served with fresh olive and tomato bread and sweet pastries. Delicious. The staff are so lovely and helpful. Its only two hours away from the Landscape masserie plots and 50 minutes from Bari Airport. Go and see, Im sure you will not be disappointed.
From the peaks of Sassi to the peaks of the Derbyshire Dales. Shamefully, its my first visit to this wonderful part of the world and I was awestruck. The landscape spreads out before you and takes your breath away. Truly lovely. Thanks to my sister Melanie, I feel totally rejuvenated after an eight mile walk, a stay in a delightful stone cottage and lots of tea and cake. Im ready for this weeks forthcoming trip to our masseria to check on progress. If the pictures that Landscape sent to us this week are anything to go by, I think we are in for some pleasant surprises. The courtyard wall is completed and the under-floor heating is laid. Its all very exciting.
I remember, this time last year when we first stepped on to our virgin land, the first buds of wild flowers were in bloom in the olive grove and the sun was pleasantly warm our faces. I look forward to shedding my winter coat this time, even if its only for a short while!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Why are you moving? is a question that has come up a lot this week.
A number of reasons really Frasers passionate answer would be that hes bored. Bored of parking tickets, crap weather, miserable faces on the Tube, big bills, lack of parking, expensive taxis, Big Brother cameras, pollution trust me, the list is much longer but Ill spare you.
On a more constructive note, we both agree that the move is inspired by an accumulation of factors leading to inevitable change. There is change that you prepare for - new job, new house, interest rate hike that sort of thing - then theres change that smacks you right between the eyes, change you couldnt possibly prepare for - loss of loved ones, divorce, redundancy, health issues. Theres been too much change lately. Its unsettling. It makes you think!
Unlike many of our friends, we dont yet have children of our own. Many friends are expecting their second or third child, which brings the issue of space and schools into the equation. As a result, many are priced out and are leaving London in search of the country pad, the 4 x 4, the private school and a chocolate brown Labrador. A natural progression I guess. It made us realise that our friends priorities are so different from our own. Having no dependants means that we can be a bit selfish and take time out. For us, those sorts of decisions are a good five years away so there is definitely a feeling that if we dont do it now, we never will.
The chance to learn a language is appealing. I hate the fact that I cant speak another language. I studied French at school for years and although I can order a beer and a hotel room with a bath (!) I do look longingly at those people who can reel off whole paragraphs fluently. I realise that the only way to learn the Italian language properly is to submerse ourselves in a community of non-English-speaking Italians and there are lots of them in Puglia! For now Rosetta Stone will have to do. A mug of tea, two digestives and bags of enthusiasm is helping us get there
The lifestyle is very tempting - fantastic food, a better diet. Fraser is a real foodie and a great cook The thought of an outdoor kitchen is his idea of heaven. My idea of heaven is a potager garden. We have huge aspirations for a kitchen garden and Im told by the locals that the earth is so fertile you can grow anything. All I can say is that Ill give it a go but Im hoping my neighbouring farmer will accept my homemade lemonade and banana loaf in exchange for some handy tips. Can you believe it, but I have allotment envy. I dribble at the site of chicory and rucola and have my nose in my Jamie at Home and Sara Ravens Garden Cookbook many a night. Who'd have thought.
I think our time in London is coming to a natural end. We have met so many great people, both professionally and socially. We all say that London has changed but actually, the fact is, its us. Weve changed. Weve gone and grown up!
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Indeed, our fabulous house in London has gone. Now we reside in a tiny little rented flat in Richmond, West London and count down the days to the morning we pack the car with our belongings and wave goodbye to the lorry weve hired to transport our possessions.
Fraser, who has a head for figures, is demonstrating great aptitude for all the nerdy stuff like the route we will take to get to a place we will one day call home. He is currently mulling over a list which includes First Aid kit amongst the many tasks he is responsible for. The checklist just keeps on growing: taxman meeting, residency, passports for the dogs, change of address list, Inland Revenue all daunting but doable.
In the meantime I am planning, in intricate detail, the interiors of our home following our last trip a couple of weeks back. A very challenging space, cavernous in the vertical sense, with the eye drawn upwards to the most spectacular ceilings. Oh..the ceilings, they are special. Its our fourth trip since the beginning of the build some seven months ago. We find ourselves standing in the shell of our home - in what will be our open plan kitchen/dining/living room - awe struck by the way the light filters through the extra window I asked for. Great shards of amber light hit the exact spot where my prized table will sit. I look left through my window where the kitchen sink will live and I see a 600-year-old gnarled olive tree, more like a creature from a book you read when you were a kid, the one that comes alive at night and says boo! What a view, nothing but olive trees and a sprinkling of wild flowers. OK, dreamy moment over, back to the plumbing. Our project manager is a genius. He gets me, which is great as I am very particular (nice with it I might add), and go to great pains to achieve the detail. Its all in the detail, a mantra they must be sick of hearing.
Our project manager has such a gentle way about him. He is quiet yet has finesse. I like the way he gestures the arch of the cloister with his hands. He undertook the laborious task of marking out the pool position and then redid it after I changed my mind without complaint, just so that we got it right. I drool over his incredible and spontaneous drawings to interpret my ideas, and better still how he takes his chalk and brings to life the idea of my pizza oven on the wall to the exact design and scale I had envisaged. He gets me. Hurrah! I ask Fraser if he is happy with the ideas we have discussed. He looks at me dreamily, excitedly, relieved that he can finally take time out from a 12-year stretch in the City. Hes clearly done his time.
Much to do this week, time to crack on. Ill be working on the hard landscaping of the inner courtyard. Some 32m x 28m to be precise. Compared to our postage-sized urban gardens of old, I can finally indulge my passion for a scented Mediterranean garden. Jasmines will tumble over pergolas, lavenders will hum with bees, bay, thyme and rosemary will compete for space, figs and lemons and will abound. Well, one can dream.
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Diary of a new masseria owner :: 21 / 1 / 2008
Its an interesting one isnt it? Bond broker and interior designer with their two West Highland terriers live in an enviable house in an enviable address in London. Life is good, comfortable some would say perfect. One day broker and designer decide to sell up lock, stock and barrel and start life over in a small rural village in a place called Puglia, Southern Italy. Do I hear echoes of Heard it all before.? If you are intrigued, however, you may want to read on
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am
Meet me, Claire, 34, my husband Fraser 41 and our doted-on pooches Winter and Christmas (adopted names from their previous gay owner and renamed Winnie and Chrissie for social acceptance, Im sure you understand).
On announcing to all and sundry our big plan to sell our Victorian home on a typical London street in exchange for a masseria in an olive grove, we have received mixed reactions. Some think we are mad, you can tell by the furrowing frown on their foreheads and a look of bewilderment in their eyes. Some turn starry-eyed and physically release the tension, shoulders lowering a foot south as they transport themselves to a place a long way away. And then there are those that love you and loathe you because youve beaten them to it or found the answer they are looking for. Its been a rollercoaster of emotional highs and lows from ecstatic excitement to stomach-churning doubt I can assure you.
Why Puglia I hear you ask? Just go and visit. I guarantee you will take something home with you that will make you warm and fuzzy when you recall your experience. Tuscany it is not. Get ready to be surprised. Puglia is natural and wild, authentic in the true sense, rustic and traditional, friendly and safe. It is totally enchanting if these are qualities you are searching for in a place.
From the gastronomic delights to the beautiful stone that makes up some of Italys most important architecture, the cherished fortified masserie and acres of breathtaking coastline (the sea is to die for), the mysterious and sculptural olive groves, the diverse cultural history many are as captivated as we are.
I have been invited to write about our experience prior to and during the big move to our new Landscape masseria and then about our new life in Puglia. What a pleasure it will be. Ill invite you into our beautiful home, a masterpiece of stone masonry at its finest and share with you stunning scenery from our many planned jaunts around the area. Ill bare my soul and face the shame of the inevitable cultural dilemmas, social etiquette disasters, embarrassing mispronunciations Ill record the highs and lows of this much-awaited journey.
Real people, real experiences.
Thanks for reading..
Posted by Admin | at 9.00 am