Diary of a new masseria owner

Well, it seems I have my dates wrong for the arrival of our baby! We are a week out and I am in fact, as of today, forty weeks and five days and therefore overdue. We’re willing Mother Nature to take her course, but if the baby doesn't decide to show on its own accord, I will be admitted into Lecce hospital this Thursday to have a helping hand. It’s strange to think that by this Friday I will be cradling our baby in my arms, a seven-year, long-awaited gift that we thought we would never be granted.


The 30-degree heat is making me very uncomfortable but I can't complain, not really. To sit in the shade this last week and admire our garden and take in the sweetness of the jasmine and lavender and to take a dip in our pool when the heat gets too much for me, has been a blessing.


The hot weather is doing wonders for the plants. A three-Euro passion flower bought from our Saturday market in Carpignano and planted eight months ago now covers a very large part of the courtyard wall and this week burst into flower. It's a spectacular sight. The solanum climbers clinging to the stone columns of the arbour look so healthy with their clusters of lilac and white dainty flowers bobbing in the breeze. And the white flowers I love are dotted here and there and sparkle in the bright light. The bays with their lustrous green leaves are thriving and the lemon trees continue to sport their bright yellow fruits.


All in all, the Simpsons are bloomin' marvellous, as you will see from the pictures!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

It's surreal to think that Fraser and I have now lived here in Salento for one year next month. It doesn’t feel that long in the slightest. After experiencing the four seasons, it occurred to us that we hadn’t seen Puglia in the month of April. This unfamiliar yet very beautiful side to Puglia has proved to be a favourite month of ours. Puglia is BLOOMING. On a drive to Otranto the other day, we were awestruck at the amount of wild flowers lining the roadside and the abundance of colour in the olive groves. Purple swathes of dainty flowers cushioning bright red poppies bobbing their heads for attention. Masses of yellow and lilac flowers spill over dry stone walls and cow parsley clump together forming a frothy sea which makes a drive, cycle or walk a real treat.

The wild fig trees are everywhere sporting their new growth of lime green leaves, Fraser and I look forward to our evening strolls where we pick baskets full of this sumptuous fruit, incredible with mascarpone and warmed honey. Everything at this time of year is so fresh, vivid and enticing. A friend who recently came to stay said “Puglia’s problem is not road kill but veg kill”. An odd comment I know, but when you see the country roads lined with locals clutching their carrier bags picking wild produce and discarding leaves and shoots over their shoulders, my friend may have a point!


Many of the olive groves sport a patch of home grown produce that would make the likes of Jamie Oliver weep! Often immaculately laid out, and with enough produce to serve a large family all year round, these individual kitchen gardens are tended with passion and dedication. Some are carefully thought out with strict symmetrical lines, cultivated pathways and intricate supports, others are haphazardly put together with no rhyme or reason, just left to grow at will. Both approaches to gardening share one thing, an incredible abundance of healthy and lush, nutrient rich, natural fruits and vegetables to be proud of.

We have a long way to go to match the likes of our neighbouring farmers but we are trying! We have planted more produce this week in our kitchen garden - peperoncini, which I am advised by a close Italian source is otherwise known as “Italian Viagra” - and we are attempting to grow melons! Our task this week is to put in supports for the fagiolini beans that are already, one week later, sprouting and growing up very quickly. We are picking on average two small bowls of strawberries every week, a taste of heaven, and it won't be long before we can tuck into our home grown lettuce and tomatoes.


Unusually, I have included pictures of the country lanes surrounding our olive grove as part of this week’s write up that I hope you will appreciate. There will be plenty more to follow in the coming weeks of our kitchen garden, our masseria and courtyard garden.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

I have reached 35 weeks of pregnancy without a hitch really. Thankfully, until now I have had very few pregnancy symptoms that are not manageable at least. Now I feel the size of a whale, my ankles have ballooned up, my heartburn makes me cringe and I am not sleeping at night. Moaning aside, I give Fraser hours of pleasure as he watches me waddle about, when I try and plant something in the garden, I usually end up falling over and grunting in order to get my larger than life self back on two feet. He finds the whole thing very comical. I have to say he is being the most perfect husband. He makes sure I drink enough water, he brings me snacks throughout the day and insists on cooking every evening. I am a picture of health given that I am pumped up with nutrients, minerals and of course the odd treat or two namely chocolate, my sweet tooth has come on leaps and bounds in the last couple of weeks. The nursery is ready, my hospital bag is packed and my nesting instinct has officially kicked in so it's countdown until the due date of 26th May.

We are busy here at the masseria, we have finally planted up the kitchen garden, a project in the making for the past ten months. We are growing: four types of lettuces, two types of tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes, onions, green beans and peppers, tons of different herbs and STRAWBERRIES. We picked our first lot of strawberries the other day and it was so rewarding. I won't say we will be self sufficient this summer but we will enjoy the fruits of our labour for sure.

We have also been very busy planting up annuals in our tubs and around the base of the lemon trees, all of which look very pretty and the jasmine gives off a lovely scent in the mornings. We came across a bird’s nest hidden beneath the lemon trees complete with five baby pale blue eggs. We did disturb it during the planting but later that day the mother returned to hold watch over her babies and keeps on retuning so hopefully she won't abandon them.

Last week was certainly a week for nature. We have a resident bird of prey that swoops down in the courtyard and perches on the side of the annexe. The bats have retuned to dance on the pool which was filled only a couple of weeks ago and we also have a resident snake that caught Fraser off guard. He bent down to pick up a stray plastic bag in the olive grove and got the shock of his life. I was in hysterics as he really was shaken up (they are not poisonous, thankfully).

On a sunny morning, the courtyard is like an aviary with the birds chirping and we have beautiful white butterflies fluttering around which I adore. The magpies knocking on our windows in the morning is less pleasing when they wake us, but it can't all be perfect now can it? Soon, when the summer heat comes, the days will be filled with the deafening sound of the cicadas who live in the olive trees and the nights will be filled with the relaxing sound of crickets, melodic sounds that confirm hot lazy days, cool still evenings and that oh so fabulous holiday feeling.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

The Homes and Gardens shoot has been and gone. Fraser and I weren’t too sure what to expect and so went around madly cleaning everything in sight. All the linen was pressed within an inch of its life. Windows, mirrors and glass were polished and buffed, the garden weeded and the annuals planted. It was a lot of hard work that really paid off.

The day of the shoot was fascinating, a very memorable experience. We immediately clicked with the photographer, a fabulous and obviously very talented guy who managed to capture the essence of Pugliese living.

From a selection of photographs we saw on the his laptop, it all looked magical and beautiful yet bewildering! The moody shots reflected the different architectural elements and cultures, playing with the mind. A night shot taken from the far corner of the olive grove looking back onto the lit masseria, conjured up images of a South African lodge in the wilderness. The magnificent cloisters and Moorish clean lines of the masseria reflected a strong Moroccan influence while the olive grove, the seasonal produce and outdoor lifestyle was the epitome of Italian living at its best!

We are so proud of what we have achieved here, and this is a fabulous way to capture our new way of life. Our baby will be born into a wonderful setting. I am sure that for years to come, maybe even when we have grandchildren of our own, we will still be proudly showing off this feature - a testament to our amazing life in Puglia.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Having just returned from the local market in Martano this morning weighed down with bundles of 100% linen, garden bulbs, herb plants and woven baskets, I am fuelled with adrenalin. There’s so much we have to do in preparation for the Homes and Gardens photographic shoot. Whilst the masseria itself it every bit photoworthy without a stick of furniture in it, to make the best of the place for editorial purposes, there is work to be done.

Internally, I'm focussing on more soft furnishing, choosing off-white linen curtains to frame the shuttered windows that will draw the eye out to the olive grove while linen bed canopies for the four-posters will dress the beds and soften the hard lines of the room. Natural material and simple design is best as anything fussy looks so out of place in these buildings.

In the spring/summer, every door and window is open to encourage the breeze to pass through the rooms keeping the interior fresh and cool. To help link the outside to the inside and to create a homely feel, we intend to plant up a dozen or so containers (something we just did not get round to last year) to add interest and colour to each of the rooms.

Externally, I am determined to design the roof terrace. This is such a wonderful space that was used very little last year, which is a shame as the sunsets and cool breeze are a must. Shade and seating are key to the design and scale should not be overlooked. The roof space is the footprint of the building so we are dealing with a vast space. I have many ideas, but at six and a half months pregnant, there is only so much one can do!

With the drier and warmer weather we are now experiencing, the pietra leccese stone is changing colour every day right before our eyes, resuming its chalky white appearance, a sharp contrast against the ever deepening blue sky. Even after one year, the stone is developing a wonderful grey/green patina, colours and tones I have used throughout the masseria. I just know that this amazing building, its clean architectural lines and uniqueness will translate beautifully onto the pages of a glossy magazine. I just can’t wait for it to be published.


Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

We are home! Our return trip from the UK was a little testing as we crammed it into a three day drive as opposed to a four day drive going over to the UK. Puffy eyes, water retention and general fatigue are some of the side effects of sitting still on average for eight hours a day but pleased to say that after 24 hours of being back here in Puglia, we are back to our normal selves.

I have to say the trip proved to be cathartic and therapeutic. Being away from the sanctuary of the masseria and our olive grove gave Fraser and I a new perspective. Seen through fresh eyes, we experienced a new appreciation of the life we have here. The energy here can be felt everywhere, the trees and their lush green foliage, the vast expanse of uninterrupted clear sky, the warming light that lifts your mood. My first impression after being away from the masseria for nearly a month was the sheer scale of the building as we entered the courtyard. These beautiful stone buildings draw you in, we immediately regained a sense of calm just by being here. Being surrounded by so many natural materials instils a sense of well being.

It is a wonderful way to live, every window in every room looks onto the olive grove, every door to every room leads to our sun-drenched lavender filled courtyard. Living just a step away from nature never fails to bring a big smile to our faces.

Whilst our return to the UK was absolutely essential to see new faces and experience a different landscape and generally indulge in all things British (namely cream tea for me), for now we are delighted, blessed and thankful to be back here, our wonderful home in Puglia.


Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

We have landed on British soil safe and sound and our journey across went without a hitch! We stayed at my favourite city on the first night of our voyage over, glorious Florence. It was incredible to be back, the last time we were there was for our wedding in August 2005. It bought back wonderful memories, it was only right to celebrate our being together for 16 years this April with a glass of bubbly.

The second night was less glamorous. The Holiday Inn Express in Lucerne, Switzerland was basic but clean and friendly and very practical given our obligation to get our dogs Winter and Christmas tick and tape worm treated before crossing the border. The vet was great and killed two birds with one stone as Winnie's dressing needed changing after her ligament operation so she left sporting a bright red bandage with "NIKE" written along it (the vet had a great sense of humour) which attracted a lot of attention. She loved it.

Our last night was spent in Lille at a very nice hotel, a treat for Fraser and I for Valentine’s and I squeezed in a couple of hours shopping in the old town which was delightful and offered an overwhelming selection of kids interiors and clothing. I was in heaven at all the choice and bought loads in preparation for kitting out the nursery, my first job on returning to Puglia.

We have spent a week now staying with family in Leicestershire. It’s great to see everybody, we do miss them. We have wined and dined, walked and taken afternoon tea, trying to cram in everything quintessentially English. We’re thoroughly enjoying it and the icing on the cake was a trip to my favourite town, Chipping Camden in the Cotswolds yesterday. Incredible scenery, rolling countryside in stunning autumnal colours and beautiful lush English gardens set against a brilliant blue sky (we got lucky with the weather). It was a joy to see the landscape changing as we drove miles and miles soaking up the idyllic atmosphere of the Cotswold stone thatch cottages to the gigantic country houses and the endless livestock that filled the surrounding fields. A vastly different landscape to the miles of stunning olive groves that surround us in Puglia and a landscape that I appreciate more than ever being away from it.

I do miss the masseria, the comfort and sanctuary of home and my how we miss those espressos and cappucinos. Nobody does it like the Italians!

But for now, our onward journey takes us to Oxfordshire, Sussex and finally my old home - London to see all our friends. We have a fierce schedule packed full with restaurants and lunches, I just hope I can stand the pace with my ever expanding bump. Mind you, I only have to mention that I am feeling a little tired and a pillow, a blanket, a glass of glass of milk arrives and I am told to take a rest, it's a wonderful thing this pregnancy malarky!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

I feel a spring in my step, finally I think the winter spell might be breaking. The temperature is creeping up a little and the wet weather has given way to drier, crisper mornings. I feel a different person, maybe I suffer from SAD (seasonal adjustment disorder). Thank goodness that the winter season here is very short and I am assured by the locals that the warmer, drier weather is definitely here to stay from now on, we shall wait and see.

I am feeling optimistic, helped by the fact that Homes and Gardens are photographing the masseria at the beginning of April for an exclusive feature which we are very excited about and we leave soon for the UK for our four week road trip staying overnight in Florence (my favourite city) Switzerland and Lille.

I am feeling ever so slightly overwhelmed at the thought of what we need to do to prepare for everything. There is the nursery to plan for, currently a blank space but what a nursery it will be for our baby. Vaulted ceiling, marble floors and a stone fireplace are some of the features this very lucky little person will adopt from day one of its precious life.

There is the photo shoot preparation, copious amounts of planting for a show of spring colour, pictures and mirrors need to be hung and furniture made or sourced to finish off the rooms.

I am also designing a roof terrace which is a vast space and will be spectacular if we can manage to install it in time for the shoot. We didn't use the roof terrace as much as I would have liked last year mainly due to the lack of seating and shade but with the design I have in mind, it will be hard to keep me from going up there. Think lots of squishy linen cushions, softly lit lanterns and pure white sails for shade. Stunning...

I love a challenge and after a very dull couple of months I am glad to be buzzing with creativity again. Spring is clearly on its way...


Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

As some of you have been asking about day to day living I thought I’d write about that this week.

We shop every couple of weeks at Carrefour (the French owned hypermarket chain found on the SS16 south of Lecce) I can get a bit carried away there and end up paying the same as in the UK so we try to buy locally made foods that would be expensive back in the UK, such as Burrata cheese (Fresh Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream) around 500g for €6 or Tuscan prosciutto where got get around 300g for €4.

We always try to buy vegetables at the local market in Martano as the prices are unbeatable but as you drive around the many villages, you will see private stall holders selling their produce from their front door! Steer clear of imports such as baked beans (€2 a tin!) and Kelloggs Cornflakes at €4 a box. Eating out is still be very cheap -pizza is a mere €4 - €6 and a half litre carafe of house wine (which is very drinkable) is a very reasonable €4.

Utilities are different from back in the UK. For example the bills for some things (electricity, phone) arrive every 60 days instead of quarterly, which can take some getting used to! Our electricity is supplied by Italy’s national company ENEL and is read by automatic meter. Gas is another utility that’s different from the UK. The gas market in Italy was deregulated in Jan 2003 and consumers can now choose their provider. The gas man comes frequently to top up the outdoor gas tank called a bombolone (a common set up in rural areas) and since June last year, 2500 litres have been pumped into the cylinder, which should last us until the spring. In Italy you can actually fix the price with the supplier so it is worth asking round locally to see what other people are paying. If you find (which hasn’t happened to us fortunately) that your supplier is charging you too much then you can threaten to switch to someone else, that should do the trick! I have been informed that gas here is around €0.60 per litre which is very low compared to other parts of Italy. We are keeping tabs on how much we use though, especially during the winter.

By the way, a great website for all utility-related topics is
http://rome.angloinfo.com/countries/italy/services.asp

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Our Christmas was lovely, chaotic with dogs, kids, presents and chatter, endless cooking and the dishwater on non stop. Even though family were with us, there was a yearning for all things familiar. The river walk and stroll in the park, hot chocolate at Valerie Patisserie, our friends’ annual Christmas party, traditions we took for granted and sadly missed.

I really do dislike January. Emotions are stirred over the Christmas and New Year, traditionally a time of year I do adore but the aftermath of the festive season often leaves me feeling low, a comedown from the endless partying and good cheer. More so this year than ever! Why is this? The airport run and the inevitable goodbyes to friends and family didn’t help and not knowing when we will see our nearest and dearest again is hideous.

When I look back at the summer, the goodbyes were less painful but come to think of it, Fraser and I had the thrill of meeting and greeting the next lot of guests within days of the last lot leaving and in some cases friends had already booked a return trip, their dates marked firmly on our very full calendar. Moreover, we always had the knowledge that we would see all our family again at Christmas, a firm plan our family enthusiastically agreed to early on in the year and an event that clearly kept us going with excitement.

As we enter the new year, 21 weeks pregnant, both Fraser and I find ourselves coping with mixed emotions. Our anxiety at the prospect of having a baby in a foreign country is growing, everything we try to achieve is an enormous milestone: understanding blood tests, communicating with our obstetrician, arranging paperwork with our doctor, finding the hospital, nothing is straightforward or remotely similar to the UK system. There is the private practice for check ups and routine scans with my obstetrician, a hospital in Lecce for the anomaly scan, a studio for “womanly” type tests, a separate hospital for my bloods and a clinic for STD’s, HIV and other such testing. All a bit alarming really. I couldn’t have got through it so far without the help of my new Italian friend who has been amazing. When I get stuck, I can turn to her and I am so grateful for all that she has done for us.

Dare I say it but is this the end of the honeymoon period, is that glorious holiday feeling well and truly over?

There is only one thing for it! To take to the road, terriers and all, to see our family and friends. We are planning a four-week whistle-stop tour around Britain. It will be my first visit back on familiar turf. I am very excited. I haven’t left Puglia since I arrived in May and for someone who was on a plane every two months when living in London, I need a change of scenery.

On a brighter note, petrol has come down in price on a massive scale, given the weakening pound, this should be of comfort to you UK visitors.

Bye for now, from a waddling, hormonal, chocolate-craving me!


Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

We've had a big push to get the masseria ready for Christmas over the last couple of weeks. Our utility room has been fitted with pietra leccese stone work tops and a sink, and our painted shutters have been fitted to the doors of the courtyard. We have red poinsettias and cyclamens everywhere and it all looks wonderfully festive

Finding a real tree proved to be a bit of a challenge. Whilst in Lecce the other day buying flowers, a lady overheard me asking where I could buy a real tree and summoned Fraser and I to her car where we followed her to the outskirts of Lecce to a man who had two trees for sale on a little market stall down a residential road. He had two, a very sad looking specimen and an absolute beauty which is proudly sitting to the right of my fireplace in all its glory. This act of kindness is not out of the ordinary! The Pugliese people help each other out and business is business but the people are so kind and really go out of their way to help you and their friends, acquaintances and love ones. It is how is should be.

Our family have arrived from England. They all say my bump is huge. I am so proud to show it off and often get stopped in the street by the locals. I am given the once over for a ring on my finger and interrogated for confirmation I have a husband, and only then is there a lot of hand raising and cooing over the baby's due date in May. So we are now known as the "Pregnant" English couple people who own a masseria with the two white dogs and the swish car. Let's face it you couldn't exactly miss us.

BUON NATALE!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Well what a storm we had a few days ago. I haven't experienced anything quite like it before. The lightning was incredible, great flashes of light that filled the night sky illuminating the thousands of acres of olive trees across the flat plains of Salento. The sky seemed to go on forever, it was really quite a sight, very dramatic if not a little scary. The rain came down in sheets and tested the roads and drainage systems of the inner villages, the winds literally shook the cars, trees and buildings, it was a relief to return home safely to the fortress-like walls of the masseria.

The following morning we awoke with no power, gas or hot water, not a pleasant thought for a pregnant woman of four months and a husband full of cold. Within ten minutes after a plea call to our Landscape Properties contact, we were back up and running. Unbelievably, the sun was shining and it was mild enough to take coffee in the courtyard, a vastly different scene to the night before.

With three week to go until our family arrive for Christmas, it is time to get into the festive spirit. Helped yesterday after a trip to beautiful Maglie. A village seven kilometers from Carpignano Salentino where we live, it is everything one would expect a typical Italian village to be at Christmas time. Every door way is adorned with green foliage and twinkling fairy lights, tasteful window displays spilling over with desirable luxurious Italian goods that catch your breath and traditional cafes crammed with foodie goods packaged in delightful colours and huge displays that would give Fortnum and Masons a run for their money.

Real Christmas trees for sale in the very pretty square give off a wonderful aroma of pine, the smell of sweet pasties emanates from every cafe drawing you in to take another espresso and pastichiotti. Even at this time of the year, the tables are full of people taking their coffee outside. Well, who wouldn't want to take in the scene around them and soak up the vibrant atmosphere? It is very alluring.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

I feel a fake! There I am, week in week out, writing my blog but there is something that has dominated my and Fraser's life the past three months which I have held back for obvious reasons. I AM PREGNANT!!! Thirteen weeks and counting. We are absolutely thrilled as we have spent many years trying to get pregnant enduring painful operations and invasive treatment including two failed rounds of IVF. We did it at long last.

The secret recipe? Well, it's controversial but surely our move to Italy has something to do with it. Could it be the copious amounts of vitamin D from the glorious sunshine? Or the copious amounts of olive oil I now consume? Maybe it's the vitamin rich Mediterranean diet? Better quality sleep? What about the absence of the daily newspaper? Perhaps, it’s my new found state of mind, and gradual habitual change. The fact that I now forget to take my mobile phone with me when I leave the masseria or allow two days to go by without checking my messages?

The slower pace to our lives and having time to do "stuff" instils a sense of calm resulting in a guilt free conscience. It isn't a miracle, I know that, but I am beginning to see that perhaps without the move to Puglia, we may have continued to overlook what was glaringly obvious, we needed a well earned rest. Simple but effective.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

A friend of mine has discovered a new book on dining out in Puglia, it's called An Appetite For Puglia by Christine Smallwood. It’s a very interesting read which covers “The People, The Places, The Food”. The book delves into the past of the restaurant owners and previous generations which makes for fascinating reading. A basic insight is given into the places featured and the restaurants signature dishes are discussed with laid-out recipes for you to try. There are few good quality books (in English) available which cover Puglia and the area of Salento but this is beginning to change as little gems like this begin to appear.

So far I have tried one restaurant from the book. It’s definitely one that I would recommend and is a delightful little restaurant in Gallipoli called "La Puritate". It’s located in a very old house dating from the 1600's with a partial view of the Ionian Sea. No menus were handed out, it was almost expected and highly recommended that we try the antipasti, and thankfully we did. Very fresh and simply prepared, the quality of food was exceptional. If you manage to go, do try the Gamberoni al Sale and the Linguine all Palamita (little goujons of tuna fillet) both delicious!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

The weather in Salento is unbelievable right now. Every morning we wake to sunshine, throw open the bedroom doors and windows, cuddle up with our girls, and enjoy our tea and toast. It's NOVEMBER!! I don't think we will ever get used to having so much sunshine, it does make an enormous difference to your day.

We go to the beach at least four times a week to walk the girls. The Alimini beach is particularly breathtaking at this time of the year. A very long and wide stretch of sand with dunes and pines for a backdrop with a view of the cliffs that run all the way to the end of Italy. It is not to be missed. The sea, a stunning shade of emerald green, is magnificent and very dramatic as the waves roll and crash and froth under your feet. Often, we are the only ones there although this week were surprised by a lovely spectacle of five horses taking their exercise for the day. Beautiful.

In preparation for Christmas when all our family come to stay, we intend to spend some time at the beach. So long as we are wrapped up in our coats, the sun will still be shining and the kids will love the freedom of having a beach all to themselves. We are investing in camping chairs, flasks and a picnic hamper. I think it will be a lot of fun and a novelty for us all!


Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Some new challenges this week which include a trip to the hairdressers and the vets, a first for us since arriving in Puglia.

I stumbled across a hairdressers in Lecce by accident that gave me the impression, after a cut and blow dry, that I would leave looking like Bridget Bardot and not Peggy from Eastenders, so in I went to make an appointment. The appointment was today. I arrived prepared with my handwritten note containing relevant hairdressing vocabulary in Italian like “graduated long layers”, “one and a half inches” and “voluminous” in an effort to communicate what I wanted. Now I know I haven't had a hair cut in over six months and so I was looking a little rough around the edges. I think my hairdresser felt she had to take serious action and so my long flowing locks have had a serious chop. I look totally different and the style is not dissimilar to the one I had on my first day at school! Oh well...

Two days ago, we had a mini trauma with Christmas (our Westie) and her ears. Clearly in pain and with her bright red inner ear giving off a horrible smell, we whisked her off to a recommended vet in Maglie. What an experience. It was very much an open door policy, everyone was in the room with us from the receptionist, friend of the receptionist and friend of the receptionist’s friend to half the waiting room. During all this Christmas was being treated – oh and there were also the resident cat and dog in there which caused much entertainment for Winter our other Westie.

Poor Christmas was being held down on the table and wrestled with by Fraser and the vet. Two minutes into the examination, an espresso was thrust into Fraser's and the vet’s hands (priorities right) and chatting ensued with our new acquaintances. Next thing we know, Christmas was injected and anaesthetised without warning (or maybe we were warned but didn't translate the Italian). It was all too much for me and I had to leave the room with a tear in my eye.

On my return five minutes later, there were even more people in the room (with their pets) all chatting away whilst my poor dog was unconscious. A trolley appeared for Christmas and we were all escorted to the operating theatre where another dog was being operated on. I was in shock I think at this point, my eyes glazed over as I waited for major surgery to be performed on Christmas. Fraser had turned a bit pale and he impatiently attempted to ask questions about the next procedure. Much to our relief, a tube was stuck in Christmas's ear and lots of gurgling later, we worked out the vet was cleaning out her ear, nothing more.

The vet signalled for us all to return to the examination room to wait for her to come round, which happened in about ten minutes. But we didn't leave for a further hour, what with more coffee and chatting and more chatting, the time just flew. We were told to take the girls back to the car and to return to see the vet. We had no idea why. We got inside and the vet dragged us back into the operating theatre where we saw three puppies who had just been born!.

We were totally emotionally drained and both went home with a dog each on our laps and slept for two hours. Only in Italy!

Humour aside, the problem with Christmas was very serious and should be a warning to all other dog owners. In Puglia during June and July, the wheat growing season, shards of wheat enter the air and are like bits of wire with arrow heads that can burrow into all manner of nooks and crannies eg dogs ears. If undetected, major infection can set in and be life threatening. Luckily for us, with a lot of patience, our vet located not one but two of the little monsters so Christmas will be fine after a hefty course of treatment for the next couple of weeks.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

October is proving to be a blissful month, the weather is a steady 25 degrees, warm enough by day for a swimsuit yet chilly by night made cosy by hearty food and an open fire. The landscape is rich in colour, many of the grounds of the olive groves have seeded and turned a luscious shade of lime green. The olive trees are full and heavy, weighed down with ripe olives and a smattering of violet and yellow flowers surprises you at every turn.

The air is still filled with the smell of smoking embers and whilst attractive smelt from afar, it is not so much fun when they are your burning embers. The smell is intense and the courtyard fills with smoke in the evening. We can't leave our laundry out to dry and it seems to attract flies which attack from every angle, a small price to pay for what will be an exciting harvest. I have a romantic notion of providing the workers with fresh lemonade and home baked cake and wandering around in my sun hat taking photographs to catalogue the memory of our first harvest. The reality will probably be much more industrious and no room for a wandering bright eyed, naive Englishwoman! We will see ...

There are no more visitors for a while! We have a clear month before a friend visits for a weekend in late October. I am itching to start my kitchen garden as it was always my intention to get it going in September, I feel we have lost time so today we have begun to plan. We have settled on eight parterres broken down into four plots. Plot 1 for herbs and fresh flowers for cutting, Plot 2 for "brassicas" such as cabbages, brussels and broccoli, Plot 3 for "roots" such as beetroots, parsnip, carrot and potatoes, and finally Plot 4 for "legumes" such as runner bean, peas, onions, leeks, lettuce and tomatoes. The soil has been turned over, the wood for the parterres needs to be priced up and delivered, and we begin digging!

Fraser seems really keen but given his aversion to DIY, I wonder how long his enthusiasm will last. I shouldn't knock him as he is producing the most mouth watering dishes right now. He is enjoying being back in the kitchen after many months of freshly prepared salads and BBQ food, the cook books are out and he is exploring all manner of ingredients, mostly Mediterranean. We both agreed the other evening that we are craving Thai and Chinese food and thankfully we have found a Thai supermarket in Lecce. It’s a style of food I love to toy with (hardly any cooking involved, therefore limited use of a cooker, therefore less margin for error - which is a good thing when I am in the kitchen).

Fraser's return to London ultimately drew him back to his favourite restaurants The Painted Heron in Chelsea and Nobu Berkley. He had a wonderful time with his friends and for a week lived a very hedonistic lifestyle. After returning to Puglia half a stone heavier, with empty pockets and a burden on his credit card, he is glad to be back. He was wowed by the sophistication, the diversity, the glamour and so on but it comes at a price. And what a stark reminder that has proved to be.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

We have become Sky News addicts, it’s our link to world at large that keeps us up to date with the appalling meltdown and financial crisis. As one news journalist said this week, at one time, our conversation was weather driven, now it's economy driven. Even here in Salento, there is no getting away from it, bringing it home that it is a world wide crisis. Friends and family continue to deliver the most awful stories of yet another poor soul that has gone under or another who is just keeping their weary heads above water.
Fraser returned to London last week before embarking on his yearly golf tournament which takes place in Sussex. What a week he picked to return to Blighty! He had only been there for 48 hours but could really feel the effects of the stress people are under. Not a single trader or broker was able to meet him week as they were chained to their desks to recoup their losses. They are all under so much pressure. This will be the best therapy for him as of late he has questioned what we have done, should he have given the City a few more years? Did we give it all up too soon? Has he thrown away opportunity to build on what we had? I think this trip will set the record straight. I think being there in the heart of it all under the inevitable growing black cloud that has descended on the country will sort out that little head of his and rid him of the doubt. We don't know what we are going to do, not really, we have some mad ideas from time to time but for now, I think we are well placed to ride it out and watch the dust settle. I know where I would rather be without sounding too cold hearted. We were lucky, got out at the right time and have a chance to better ourselves and build on what we have (eventually) instead of the many affected people out there that are fighting to hold onto what they have left!
Anyway, it's not as idyllic as you would imagine out here in the sticks right now, the weather has turned, three days of storms have ensued and I am trying to figure out the underfloor heating controls as I am so cold. After a four month stretch of absolutely gorgeous hot weather, this has been a tremendous shock to the system.
Also, big news headline, the Italians had a one day boycott on bread buying in a protest over the rise in food prices, see we have similar dilemmas, it's not the good life all the time, just most of the time!
Ciao Ciao. . . . .
Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

There is a definite hum of activity this week in preparation for the olive harvest which is shortly upon us. Landowners and farmers are out and about, busy as bees surveying the fruits of their labour, clearing the grove and cleaning the ground. The distant din of the tractor can be heard in all directions as the earth is churned and flattened creating swirls of fresh reddish brown soil in and around the olive trees. Little piles of twigs, weeds and overgrown cow parsley are gathered into tepee-style piles and torched towards the end of the working day. The delightful aroma of burning embers fills the air, I find the whole process very comforting. Cute little Ape vans overflowing with olives trundle pass me whilst walking my girls, a farmer looks up from his work momentarily offering a nod or a wave and resumes his duties, his passion no doubt.

I learnt only this week that we have two types of olive cultivar on our land - "Leccese" and "Cellina" producing three types of olive oil, two singular blends and the third a combined blend. Delicious. Given that olive oil has been found in ancient Egyptian tombs or that man could be condemned to exile or death if caught in the heinous crime of cutting and olive trees down, it gives us some idea of how sacred the olive tree once was in ancient times and still is in modern times. Olive oil today is a source of income for over 12 million people around the world. But it's not just the money that makes the olive tree alluring, for me it's a sanctuary, and ever changing sculptural garden, a respite from the big bad world. For some of the farmers here, it’s their private space, somewhere to get away from it all, and somewhere the "Mrs" can't be found, a bit like the English garden shed!

We continue to have fun with our guests. Given the appalling weather the UK experienced (with the need for bed-socks and central heating in August), our friends and family experienced the other extreme here in Salento a steady 30 degrees. Many are finding it too hot into the first few days and are hinting at the need for air conditioning, something Fraser and I are resisting (can't stand it myself and we find a fan is enough) although perhaps we will have to consider it in the future.

Whilst the activity inland increases, activity at the sea is coming to an abrupt end. The little beach huts are closing, restaurants have cleared and stored away the furniture and locked up for the winter which means we will have the place to ourselves again, just the way we like it!
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August is the month for Italians to take their holidays. Over the last week we have noticed that the pace has slowed right down, some shops and suppliers simply post up a note on their door advising they are on their holiday and a note of their return date. Others are locked up with no note on the door and no idea when they will reopen. Shops that are open are staffed to a minimum and if something is not in stock it will stay that way until the end of August. I love that this is the way it is and no one loses sweat over it.

We were expecting Puglia to grind to a halt with traffic and tourism but here in Salento, we haven't felt the effects that volume tourism normally brings. Consider that every night throughout August, a sagra or festival, live-band or concert can be found in most villages every night of the week, we have managed to get from a to b without a hitch and continue to get a table in most restaurants. With the exception of the hectic beaches, which we choose to stay away from generally (don't do sardine sunbathing), we have really enjoyed the buzz and balmy atmosphere. Unlike many holiday destinations, here they gear up for the masses. Road traffic is policed, parking is supervised by attendants, service in most establishments is maintained by increased table covers and staff. It's been a very impressive first season.

My determination to get things done this week has paid off. We have found a vet and a dog groomer (Winnie and Chrissie are booked in tomorrow for a makeover). We are filling in the paperwork for a postbox at the post office, we have a contents insurance quote but need help with the translation of the small print and Fraser is finalising the shortlist of quotations for car insurance. I'm meeting with a seamstress this week for cushions and curtain requirements and I'm enrolling with a school to learn Italian. I have decided to gather a list of useful resources and suppliers who we have been delighted with and list their names and numbers with prior permission in my blog so look out for the details which will be posted up soon.

In the meantime, here is a quick summary of our favourite places and an update on new discoveries - mainly culinary it has to be said!

Maglie - A stylish and fashionable town with sophisticated shopping, elegant restaurants and beautiful architecture. We ate at Pickwick, fab little restaurant tucked away with an open courtyard. Excellent food with a varied menu, good prices given the quality and setting, nice ambience with low lighting, candles and good music, a real favourite of ours. Wander around the little adjoining gallery where local artists work can be viewed including the chef's! Pickwick, Via Trento e Trieste 54, 73024 Maglie. Tel: +39 0836 428573

Lecce - A vibrant atmosphere with its artist-lined pavements offering desirable handmade wares, buzzy restaurants and cafes and sophisticated bars. A cultural melting pot, there is something for everyone. We tried a great restaurant Torre di Merlino and have since returned. Depending on what you choose, it can be a little pricey compared to other restaurants but really lovely food and excellent wine, very generous portion sizes (perfectly fine to share dishes). Had a wonderful wine called Verdecca, a local wine from Salento and it was really very good. You need to book as it gets incredibly busy. Torre di Merlino, Vico G.B del Tufo 10, 73100 Lecce (Just off Via Peroni). Tel: 0832 242 091.

Castro – Try La Tartana, it’s got a nice terrace with sea views and amazing antipasti di mare. La Tartana, Via IV Novembre 151, 73030 Castro Marina. Tel: 0836 943 513 "

Coli" in Cutrofiano - Incredible selection of traditional crockery and pots (mainly terracotta) for your garden, an awesome display of shapes and sizes. They have an "offer" room where you can bag yourself a real bargain, plates as little as €2. Ciao Ciao!

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Having a constant stream of visitors arriving at the masseria means that your life is temporarily put on hold. Fraser and I find it difficult to focus on what needs doing and what can wait in an attempt to satisfy the need for quality time for ourselves and our guests. There is always a tempting distraction, be it a trip to the beach or a meander around a piazza or coffee at the cafe...

Finding that balance between the necessary and the indulgent is key to retaining your state of mind and survival as successful hosts. There are the supermarket runs to stock up on the never ending demand for food. There’s the constant cleaning of the masseria to ensure a comfortable stay for your family and friends. There are the trips to the local wine taverns to ensure everyone’s palate is kept satisfied and hydrated. There are requests for the unusual which require your guidance, patience and inevitable chaperoning skills.

We are virgins when it comes to playing host and entertaining large quantities of guests (whilst on their holiday) in our home and let me tell you it has proved to be a steep learning curve. At what point do you delegate out the necessary or partake in the indulgent? This is a finely tuned skill we are still learning to master.

Sixteen guests later in half as many weeks and we have just about cracked the day to day running of the household!

Top Tips:
Pool/Beach towels - Whatever you have, double the quantity. They always run out especially if there are kids visiting. We are convinced that a monster towel muncher lives in the grove and feeds off them. They seems to vanish.

The outdoor kitchen - A real hit. Duplication of everything is necessary if not a little indulgent but trust me when I say it has proved to be a blessing. Less crumbs, less sticky fingers, less traffic inside, if nothing else good for you!

Nibbles - No one diets when on holiday, everyone craves carbs, a shocking amount is consumed by all. Load up all kinds - bread sticks, crackers, crisps, brioche, croissants, toasts. No more car runs to the shops just as you pour that V&T and realise you are out of snacks.

I'll keep them coming....

Banking
Quite a few people have got in touch and asked about how to set up a bank account. The process was relatively pain free for us.

You don't need to be a resident to open a bank account. You will need your codice fiscale which our lawyer applied for on our behalf. We were taken by the Bank's Director into a room, we produced our passports and codice fiscale and somehow between us, with no translation, just a dictionary, we managed to open a basic current account. All the necessary paperwork, pin codes and passwords for internet banking were sent to our UK address. We set up a Euro account with Barclays and transferred the monies across to our Italian bank account. Voila.

One word of warning, we learnt only this week, after a series of failed attempts to purchase goods or withdraw cash, that our debit cards each have a "monthly" limit of €1500. As we are still setting up home and settling bills with suppliers and therefore exceeded this by day three of the 30 day period. We have just had this increased which was done automatically with the cashier in the bank. It worked instantly after leaving the bank allowing us to withdraw up to €1750 euros in any given day and a €6000 spend limit in any given month.

One other tip! Get a cheque book. We have just requested one which will be ready next week. There is often a signal failure at the cash point or with the pin machines. One particular day (a bad day it has to be said), we tried six cash machines and we still couldn't get any cash out over a three hour period. We tried withdrawing cash out over the counter (not our branch another smaller Uni Credito) but they require the Lecce branch to fax over proof of signature which can take half an hour. Basically, cash is king. Failing that, cheque book back-up is a good idea.

Next week we aim to be strong willed, delegate more and be less indulgent… We are concentrating on contents insurance, doctor's registration, vet's registration and setting up a post box. Wish us luck!

Ciao...

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

So as not to bore you all with the day to day stuff that we get up to, I thought I would summarise the extreme or notable differences we’ve noticed in our new lives here in Puglia.

The Weather
It’s hot. No messing about here, consistent heat with no let up, temperatures now tipping 40 degrees C and a sky with not a cloud in sight! Thankfully, we are so close to the sea, about 7km or so, that the breeze reaches us and ripples through the trees in the grove and washes over the courtyard making for a fantastic climate that’s enjoyable and liveable. The light before sunset is divine. Golden hues hit the facade of the masseria turning the white stone to honey, set against the most fantastic azure sky. You could be forgiven for thinking you were in the middle of the Moroccan desert. Sunsets too are very beautiful. Long brushstrokes of pink and mauves dominate the endless sky, a captivating picture you can’t escape. Who would want to!

The Big Adjustment
The simplest of activities and chores are trying. When you haven’t got the language cracked, a visit to the post office and the bank is enough to send you over the edge! The ticket systems, multiple queues for different counters and just generally knowing how things are done are challenges we face and are determined to overcome.

At first you are enthusiastic, perhaps with a rehearsed line or two under your belt to help you along. It can only go two ways - sheer relief or sheer hell. Hell is when a sinking feeling of “I’m not getting anywhere” takes over, and the banner above your head reads, “I am an alien that has just landed on unknown territory”. You give off a vibe of desperation causing people to look away. But there is always one adorably brilliant person that comes along, takes you under their wing and performs the very chore you failed to achieve with ease and a gentle, if not ever so slightly mocking, smile. Mentors - we need you, we are eternally grateful.

The Diet
We’ve never eaten so many vegetables ever! They are available in abundance, are cheap, straight from the ground and taste so good. An Italian friend of Fraser's recently visited Puglia and commented that he could cry when he eats the food here as it takes him on a trip down memory lane to his childhood and Italian upbringing. Fraser, who is a bit of a sauce man - anything from a concentrated jus to good old fashioned ketchup – has noticed that he hasn’t needed the usual condiments he craved back in the UK. Simple food packed with flavour doesn't need extensive enhancement I guess. HP is off the menu.

Herbs are spilling over in my little herb garden, full of flavour and vibrant in colour, we use them daily.

The local markets are the place to buy fresh produce. Not only is it an education and a place to practise the language, it a gastronomic experience. Stallholders are only too willing to wave their produce in front of you, vying for your attention and handing you treat after treat. Creamy pecorino cubes, prosciutto crudo freshly sliced, a ladle filled with olives, an array of marinated anchovies are handed to you to tempt you and to win your business. The gentle hum of trade, the no-rush no-hurry mentality of shoppers, the smells and flavours make for a lovely experience that I look forward to every week.

The weekly market at MARTANO is on every Tuesday morning until noon

Eye openers
We can’t help but make comparisons. It’s human nature’s way of getting to grips with different cultures.

Some notable differences include petrol stations where you are served by an attendant who fills your car up, cleans your windscreen, takes your cash and returns your change, all this delivered with a smile. No, it’s not the smile that is so unusual but the lit fag hanging from the attendant’s mouth. and to think once whilst filling up in London, I was hollered at over a tannoy across the forecourt for talking into my mobile phone!

Driving etiquette is a steep learning curve but thankfully without devastating consequences. In the UK, we flash to give way, in the south you flash to warn someone you are about to pass. In the UK we wave to say thanks, in the south, if you wave, you stop traffic. Trust me, I have caused havoc! In the UK, the rear view mirror is used to look for traffic to your rear, in the south, the rear view mirror is positioned “permanently” to check out your suntan!

Whilst sipping my cappuccino the other day, I saw a man drive into the rear bumper of a woman. The cars came to an abrupt stop, both parties got out to survey the damage. There were a couple of nientes, a laugh and a joke, then a chat ensued whilst perched on the bonnets, leaving the build up of cars to semi circle the scene of the accident. And not a single horn or obscenity to be heard.

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Our second lot of family have now returned to the UK and our friends Simon and Jess have arrived from London. Unfortunately, Fraser and I have caught awful colds most probably from the children (and all and sundry on the Ryanair flight) plus an eye infection so we are not on form. Poor Simon and Jess, although they seem to be settling in nicely reading and sleeping. The weather is hotting up and the pool is proving to be imperative. We have come to realise that it is important to crack on with chores even when we have guests as nothing will ever get done however we slow down between 1pm and 4pm as the sun defeats us. We relax by the pool with vodka and tonics or a glass of the local vino (which is fantastic at four Euros a bottle) and reminisce. I feel like Margo from The Good Life, I even have the kaftan. It really is a fantastic way to spend quality time, it was commented on by our friends that back in London we saw each other every couple of months for an evening at most, now we find ourselves chatting for a whole week. It’s a luxury I admit.

The masseria is really taking shape.The beautiful arbour is complete, I had no idea it would be so grand, the pergola is finished and is a sanctuary during the heat of the day. We breakfast, lunch and dine under there and it has proved to be an extension of our home.

We have some lovely Italian friends coming to cook for us next week whilst some other friends from London are staying. It should be a blast as they speak very little English and we speak very little Italian! I think I need to go to school and have some structure to learning the language. Fraser and I are doing really well and we try to learn a few new words every day but it’s the stringing together the sentences that floors us. There is a language school in Otranto so I plan to check it out and enrol.

We have adopted a stray dog called Bella, named by my sister during her stay.She is a cross between a husky and a golden retriever. She is beautiful although in a bit of a bad way. After three weeks of feeding her, she is fattening up nicely and escorted me on a 30 minute jog the other morning. Her energy is boundless, I was delighted. She would have once made a lovely family pet, clearly she has had training as she is obedient and so graceful. I wonder what happened to her. My sister in law was all set to give up her life in Gloucestershire and start a dog sanctuary here after my many tales of abandoned dogs in the neighbourhood. There are so many, it breaks my heart and I’m glad I’ve given Bella a home, she deserves a bit of comfort and attention at her age. She is a great guard dog and keeps the other strays at bay and the snakes in the grove so I’m told. That’s fine by me thanks very much. Our two dogs Winter and Christmas were wary in the beginning but are warming to her slowly, I just need to work on my husband now!!!

A couple of weeks ago, we decided to take a stroll around the square in Martano with our girls, you know show our faces, do what the locals do. It started off well - nodded at a few of the residents, waved at some familiar faces, that sort of thing. Next thing we were descended on by all the strays in the village with full force and were chased the length of the square in full view of all the villagers with Winter and Christmas tucked under our arms fearing for their lives whilst our trouser legs took a beating. Red faced we jumped in the car and made it home in one piece if not a little embarrassed and ashamed. Got to laugh, let's face it the residents of Martano did. If they didn't know us before they certainly do now!

Ciao!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Our trip to Luigi’s father’s garden was an absolute treat. We were escorted around a beautiful orchard full of trees laden down with fruit - lemons, figs, apricot, pear and nectarines to name a few. The tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines were spilling over and grapes were climbing the walls. A real delight.

Of course, I now want to recreate the same in my garden. However, after being told that this garden’s creation was the result of 26 years of hard graft, I realise patience is the key, something I don’t have much of I’m afraid. Anyway, I plan to give it a go in the autumn. For now, I’ve planted basil, parley, sage, mint, oregano and two types of rocket all of which are doing really well. The flavours are unbelievable, our palates are reawakened.

We left Luigi’s father’s with a huge basket of treats picked fresh in front of our eyes and four beautiful eggs from his chicken coop. After which we were treated to coffee back at Luigi’s parents home and given basil, chillies and roses all from their cherished and immaculate garden. The people are so friendly, I am overwhelmed at the generosity extended to us. I am so grateful.

On a practical note, everything is coming together nicely on the communications side of things. We have the internet via Alice mobile, which is a key you plug into the back of your computer. You pay €139 euros for the key to kick off with a €20 euros a month unlimited use. It’s fine for checking on emails, but very slow for browsing the internet. You can get them from any mobile phone shop, we bought ours in Martano, I forget the name but the girl in their was extremely helpful. We may get a laptop as the signal for internet connection will be better outside than within the stone walls of the masseria and much nicer to sit in the shade and reel off emails. Alternatively, we may invest in a Blackberry (something I have prayed that Fraser would never invest in, they take over your life in my opinion) but for now we have bought pay-as-you-go phones that we top up, although this is still proving an expensive solution as we pay 0.30 cents a minute. I know that back in the UK my mum has an SIM which she uses in a spare phone and calls Italy at 3p per minute. To date I haven’t found anything that competes with that. I’ll continue looking…..

By chance, we happened to meet our neighbours at our local cafe the other day. Introductions were made and so on. Bumped into them a couple of days later again at our local cafe and together with their delightful friends, they joined us for a two hour feast of cappucinos and pastries. Later that day, they invited us to join them for lunch at their masseria and four hours later and giggling on Prosecco, I think we have established a fab friendship, and we look forward to returning the invitation.

So all is well from us in Salento, hi to all of you that visited our masseria, great to chat with you and we wish you well in your quest to buy in Puglia.

Ciao!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

It’s been many weeks since I wrote a thing but some of you who follow my blog might be interested to know that WE DID IT!

We are here in Puglia with our dogs and belongings, surreal but fantastic. A year of intricate planning and here we are… not without few disasters and funny stories along the way it has to be said.

The Move
Started off well, ended in disaster! The day began with a surprise visit at 7am from my sister and brother in law laden down with hot coffee and homemade muffins. Lovely. Very emotional, it was the sudden realisation that we really were moving to Italy. Seeing my sister’s face just made me crumple.

The lorry arrived, the loading happened at mega speed, I did a couple of tip runs, Fraser had an emergency dental appointment as his cap fell of his tooth onto the table at Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant whilst dining with friends - absolutely hilarious. The inventory check out went very smoothly on our rented flat and I resumed a calm longing to get in the car and on our way to the hotel we had booked near to the tunnel crossing.

Disaster strikes. Fraser returned from the dentist to find a completely empty flat, professionally cleaned and ready to be locked up. He asked me “Where’s the bag?” I replied “What bag?”He said “The bag with our passports, the dogs’ passports and certificates, credit cards, cash, everything.” We looked around and the stomach churning began, a row ensued at the realisation that the bag must have been loaded onto the lorry which was halfway down the motorway heading for Dartford. Or worse still the bag had been chucked at the tip!

We had no choice but to ride out the evening sleepless and wait until the storage facility opened at 7am to trawl through the hundred or so boxes. Aaaarrrggghhhh. It was AWFUL! Droopy eyed and fatigued, we started the search at 7.05am, and found the bag at 7.20am. The relief was incredible. I got teary eyed and Fraser made some shrieking noises. We missed our crossing, bumped onto the next one and, five hours later, found ourselves sitting in a glorious chateau near Nancy sipping a glass of champagne. We were on our way.

The Journey
It rained from the moment we left the UK to our arrival in Puglia ten days later. It didn’t matter. We saw spectacular scenery, the mountains in Switzerland, the lakes of Como, the hills of Cortona, the valleys of Le Marche and the coast of northern Puglia. It was a fabulous 1600 miles that made for a very memorable drive.

The Masseria
Disconcerting moment to be told that our masseria wasn’t ready to move into for another couple of weeks whilst driving through Italy! We were officially homeless. Landscape very kindly gave us an apartment to camp in whilst the masseria was made habitable. A good thing really, as we were had no choice but to mingle with the locals and integrate. Perhaps we would have hidden away had we been in the masseria. Anyway as a result we have made some lovely friends.

We eventually moved in the day my family arrived! It was chaotic. No beds were assembled, hadn’t a clue about things like plates, kettle but somehow we managed to pull it off. Three weeks later, we have a home which we are still sharing with the builders. They are at the finishing off stage which seems to take forever but it’s rewarding. We return home every day to find something new to look at.

Big day tomorrow, the pool is being filled, much to our family’s dismay. One lot has already gone home without as much as a dip of the toe and the second lot have a couple of days left so will probably have a swim on the day they fly home. That together with 7am starts, the saw mill and jack hammer may have put them off for good. I hope not.

The Italian is coming on slowly, we try and learn a couple of new words every day and making friends helps, as you want to converse in Italian. Salvatore, a local man who owns a good restaurant in Martano, has very kindly offered to come to the masseria with his wife and cook for us in our wood oven whilst giving Fraser a tutorial.

Giovanna, our local grocer wants to give me some of her African Lily bulbs after seeing me carrying a few stems from the local florist so that I can grow my own.

Luigi, our beloved waiter at Vera Tipica, another restaurant in Martano, is giving us a guided tour of Salento on Monday and will introduce us to his father, an experienced gardener with a very enviable garden who will get me stared on my potager.

Just this week we’ve had two dinner invitations from local businessmen. Everyone is so friendly, intrigued by you and wants to know you and, I guess, wants your business. We feel very lucky to be here, enjoying every moment basking in the glorious sunshine. It really is everything we had hoped for.

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Claire and Fraser are moving in to their new masseria in Puglia at this very moment! Claire will be updating her blog as soon as she can so keep checking back.
Ciao Ciao!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

This week, I've been busy getting together information about our masseria for our website which we hope to launch this autumn.

We know we have a stylish farmhouse in a wonderful setting, a great pool, lovely beautifully-designed accommodation, all of which makes for wonderfully alluring photographs. But we cannot rely on photographs alone to lure in the punters, not if we want great reviews, repeat business and high ratings…

Come on, we've all done it, you know, fallen for that gorgeous pool shot with the tumbling bougainvillea set against an azure blue sky and the terrace to take drinks - it all looks perfect. You arrive and the pool looks more like a pond with 1970s sagging sun-loungers (cleverly omitted from the pool shot), the bougainvillea is in fact in the neighbour’s garden and the bedroom linen is circa 1950. But in my experience you usually get over it. After all, you’re not at work, the sun is out and it's a chance to BBQ, have a cocktail or two and enjoy your family and friends.

BUT, it's the little things that will tip you over the edge, the tiny but essential practical things that press your buttons just one time too many, causing you to grit your teeth and vow never to return again.The lack of a bottle opener, the collapsible shower curtain, the dodgy lock, the ill placed step you trip on every time....

Puglia has an ever-expanding variety of villas to rent, we have never had it so good. But what comes with a growing rental market is a bunch of eager website operators that are keen to guide the discerning traveller to find and book a place that best suits them. Most just give overviews, but I like the ones that are highly selective, detailed and opinionated, with honest reporting and value for money. I have very high expectations these days and therefore I am aware that we have a tall order to meet. I'm sure we won't tick every single box but we are going to try our damnedest to get it right. Over the years we have been lucky to experience some great places, many that have wowed and excited us, many that have relaxed and rejuvenated us and many that have made us not want to leave. To get that formula right, I've come to realise that not only do we have to get the detail right but we have to create the experience, the lifestyle… There’s so much to do and we don't even have a name for the masseria yet!

Ciao Ciao!

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

My mind this week has been occupied with obtaining the most mundane but absolutely essential information to make living in Puglia practical. A series of "How Do I's" swamped me, resulting in an anxiety attack at about 2am in the morning. I haven't given a thought to such matters as obtaining a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) or Italian Internet Banking or "Emergency Numbers”. How do I get online without having a land line? How do I renew a British passport? How do I pay car, rubbish, community tax, electric and gas bills?

A false sense of security gripped me as I thought - got the masseria, got the Gucci glasses, got a basic understanding of the local lingo, not bad on a Vespa… but I haven't the foggiest idea about how the Italians live day to day!

Then I found "Puglia Uncovered", the answer to my prayers. It’s a fantastic website that deals with all the above and more. There’s a great forum incorporating those that have done it and those that aspire to do it. It’s a really great resource that, thankfully, has restored my sleeping pattern!

Take a look http://www.pugliauncovered.com/

I hope to focus on this area in the next few weeks. Reading the many forums it all seems relatively straightforward (hang on, what about all that red tape the Italians are famous for...). If anyone has an experience, good or bad, or top tips to share, I would love to hear from you. Email me at claire@jamesmasoninteriors.co.uk

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

Hoorraahh! Masseria Montelauro, a hotel offering 27 rooms, 2km from Otranto, has opened its doors, marking the beginning of the summer season. We stayed there last year and returned just a few days ago as we finalised decisions on our masseria build. This visit happens to be our last before we move over in May. Masseria Montelauro is perfect if you want something simple and friendly. There are dogs galore as the owner takes in the odd stray and they are all adorable. The interior is very calming (think crisp whites and sky blues) and it is lovely and quiet with a lovely pool (great in the warmer months for a much needed dip after a day on site). The blazing fire at the entrance was a warm welcome from the cold, given the temperature in Puglia was much colder than on record this time last year. The farmers are very happy at least, given the rainfall. See, it's not just good old England that has miserable weather (much to Fraser's disgust).

Masseria Montelauro http://www.masseriamontelauro.it/en/default.asp is also known as the Apulian Farmhouse, so named by HUSH Italy, a company representing a small handpicked selection of charming hotels and guest houses in the area. You might find it useful http://www.hush-italy.com/

We had a really funny and embarrassing moment with the receptionist. Whilst trying to reserve a hotel room for a couple of nights in anticipation of our arrival in Puglia in May (just until our lorry turns up), the receptionist and I got our wires very crossed. In Italian, I asked "Do you allow dogs to stay overnight with their owners in the hotel rooms?" The receptionists answered " No problem, we can talk to the restaurant who will put it in the fridge for the night". Trust me, this conversation went round and round in circles until I fathomed out that the word for dog is "cane" but I had pronounced the "r" therefore it sounded like "carne" which means meat …do I need to explain anything more! Very exciting day today. When we sold our house, we sold everything in it!

Very lucky as it means we had an opportunity to start again. Given the austerity of the masseria's architecture, what worked in our Victorian home definitely wouldn't have a place in our masseria. As I’m an interior designer I've called upon all my contacts and suppliers, which has made the process of acquiring a five bedroom home’s worth of furniture a very enjoyable process. It all appeared in our driveway today. So many boxes, I cannot wait to unpack and make home again. I've hunted down some great pieces, just this morning, at some godforsaken hour at Kempton Antiques Fair, I managed to land myself a bread paddle (about 120 years old) from Normandy. It' about 8ft long and made of solid wood, just gorgeous and a perfect decorative addition to our enormous wood oven. Counting down the days…

Posted by Admin | at  9.00 am

I have been busy chatting to many of you who have contacted me recently about the issue of earning a living. "What will you do once you are there?" is a common question and is something that many people who decide to pack up and give it a go abroad often overlook. You only have to watch the many programmes on TV and the classic scenario where a couple arrive in a foreign country with totally unrealistic time-scales for the launch of their B&B venture with 2p in the bank to pull it off to know what I mean. (For all of you out there that did manage to pull it off in similar circumstances, well done you, I just clearly haven't got your tenacity or nerves of steel.)